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If you’re a foodie in Victoria (or, really, anywhere in Australia), chances are Wickens is on your must-dine bucket list. It was definitely on mine, and after a few prior fleeting visits to Dunkeld (a three-hour drive west of Melbourne) I was stoked to finally be locked in to experience the culinary magic of this regional restaurant for myself.
As part of the acclaimed Royal Mail Hotel, Wickens was officially established in late 2017 by executive chef Robin Wickens, who had been working at the Royal Mail Dining Room since 2013. Since then, it has gone from strength to strength – building out one of the country’s most impressive wine collections; growing a bountiful kitchen garden that now supplies up to 80 per cent of the produce showcased in the menu; picking up two hats (along with multiple other awards); and driving up visitation to the small Southern Grampians community.
The vibe
Name a more picturesque spot for a regional restaurant, we’ll wait. Located at the southern tip of the Grampians National Park, in the shadow of the majestic Mount Sturgeon, Wickens is an intimate dining room ensconced in nature – native plants line the boardwalk entrance, and towering trees dominate the panoramic vista that’s framed by floor-to-ceiling windows. It’s a beautiful sight to behold upon being seated; my only qualm with the 7.30pm booking is that once golden hour surrendered to darkness, so did our ability to continue admiring the views (book in for lunch if that’s important to you).
Inside, the atmosphere is one of calm conviviality and quiet chatter. Timber panels line the roof, while flying saucer-shaped lights warm the space with a yellow glow. Like watching a perfectly choreographed ballet, staff gracefully move between the open kitchen and individual tables, delivering plates complete with concise explanations of what comprises each dish.
This is an experience to savour and luxuriate over – it’s recommended that you allow at least three hours to complete the sitting (my husband and I were there for almost four!), in order to truly appreciate the craftsmanship, lush environment and connection to the land.
The food
While the menu on our table indicates eight courses ($310 per person), be prepared for a few supplementary dishes to pop up over the course of your meal. Dining at Wickens is an ever-changing, highly inventive journey through the current season’s crop from the kitchen garden, paired with fine cuts of meat reared in neighbouring pastures.
A delivery of moreish canapés kick things off: there’s a red cabbage sauerkraut tart; kangaroo tartare on a seeded cracker with muntries; a saltfish croquette; and a vanilla slice-esque pastry that’s layered with the freshest tasting peas I’ve ever had in my life. It’s a strong start, seamlessly introducing flavours that are bitter, tangy, sweet and spicy, but never overpowering.
A walnut chawanmushi with glazed chicken oyster and ewe’s milk cheese is warm and comforting, and I sense the most glorious hint of truffle. It’s followed by a barbecued crayfish and rabbit loin with a fluorescent carrot purée and Thai green curry spices that proves even the most unexpected combo of ingredients can come together to sing harmoniously on the plate.
There’s a trio of heartier meat dishes featuring King George whiting, Great Ocean duck and Royal Mail lamb – all cooked to perfection and accompanied by a swag of kitchen garden ingredients like rhubarb, broad beans, rapini and wild garlic. But it’s the surprise in-between plates that leave me wide-eyed and buzzing with glee. Two stalks of asparagus, one white and one green, bathed in a glossy viridescent jus and topped with a delicate sprinkle of leaves and petals is a wonderful example of simply letting good quality produce shine without too much interference. And Wickens’ signature alphabet soup (our version had parsley letters floating in a tomato consommé) remains a playful and utterly charming highlight.
Two dreamy desserts end things on a suitably sweet note. The kiwi sorbet with Dunkeld-grown bananas, koji and frozen meringue is giving Dippin’ Dots – you know, those frozen beads of ice cream – but in an elevated, adults-only way. It’s refreshing and tart, but still creamy; I could’ve had two more servings. Next, Wickens’ take on an apple pie with a meadowsweet mousse, fermented apple and apple blossom ice cream is akin to a big hug. And to finish, petit fours come in the form of jelly baby vegetables. Cute!
The drinks
When it comes to wine, Wickens does not mess around. The award-winning Royal Mail cellar spans two generations and boasts more than 30,000 bottles of the good stuff – including the largest private collection of Bordeaux and Burgundy in the Southern Hemisphere. True oenophiles will likely jump at the chance to peruse and pick from Wickens’ 4,200-bottle wine list, or opt for the excellent pairing at $265 per person.
I decide on a choose-your-own-adventure approach, working my way through a 2021 Confuron Gindre Bourgogne Aligote (fresh, complex and citrus-driven); a 2023 Cobaw Ridge Pinot Noir (elegant with a touch of cherry and spice notes); and a 2021 Maison Lou Dumont Morey-Saint-Denis Cuvée Bio (that went down way too easily) – all expertly recommended by the sommelier.
There’s also a matched non-alc pairing, a botanic-infused cocktail list and some local beers to round out the rest of the beverage options.
Time Out tip:
Make sure you do the Kitchen Garden Tour, which gives you a fascinating insight into Australia’s largest working restaurant kitchen garden. It’s complimentary if you already have a booking at Wickens, and is run by the Royal Mail Hotel’s chefs and gardeners (we were lucky enough to attend on a day Robin Wickens himself was hosting). You’ll learn about the history of the property, the organic growing methods (no herbicides or pesticides are used here), innovative gardening techniques like companion planting and how the harvest influences the menu. Plus, it’s a thrill to see all that fresh produce pop up on your plate during service.
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