A falling star is supposed to be an opportunity to make a wish, so today’s revealing Michelin rankings for New York found much of the food community wondering what Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of the estimable eponymous restaurant, is wishing for the year ahead. For the first time since the rankings debuted in 2005, his 20-year-old flagship, Jean-Georges, got knocked from three stars down to two. With Vongerichten stretched thin lately with vast, rapid expansions — abcV (aka “the inside of Gwyneth Paltrow’s brain”) and the widely panned Public are two standouts from this year—he seems to have lost some je ne sais quoi in the increased scope.
But wish they may and wish they might, today also failed to offer best wishes to several snubbed standouts, including Le Coucou, The Grill, and the entirety of Brooklyn, which lost a quarter of its Michelin-starred venues as it tumbled from 12 spots last year to nine this year.
It wasn’t all bad news. Half of the six new one-star spots are Japanese, and New York can now boast the only U.S. two-star Japanese restaurant, Sushi Ginza Onodera. And Cote gave the city its first-ever Michelin-star for Korean fare. New York is by no means gaining on the Michelin haven of Tokyo, but we now boast as many two-star Japanese spots as Miyagi (which is in Japan). And consider this: the bagels suck in Miyagi. So, there’s that.
The 2018 Guide for New York City will go on sale for $18.99 on Friday, November 3.