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It is no secret that some of New York’s pizza can be found in Bushwick. Since 2008, Roberta’s has dominated the 'za conversation for its crispy, Neapolitan-like pizzas and Italian-ish leanings. In fact, Neapolitan style has taken hold of the neighborhood, as Ops, another treasured favorite of the area, is beloved for its sourdough-based pies (so much so, that they recently opened another location). And coming soon, the Brooklyn nabe is set to welcome another pizzeria this month—but this time, the pizza is everything Detroit.
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Opening on Thursday, July 10, Turbo Pizza is a joint effort from brothers Max and Spencer Nelson and longtime friend Jordan Dubey, bringing wings, booze and Detroit-style pizza to the neighborhood (at 1540 Dekalb Ave, to be exact). Leaning on what they know—the threesome owns the dive bar, 101 Wilson, also in Bushwick—their pizzeria is divey in nature, with checkered floors, wood paneling and a red-wrapped pool table with a vintage Budweiser sign hanging above it. Alongside a few high tops and chairs at the bar, the booths found near the rear of the space will likely be "the" place to sit as the back wall is lined with glow-in-the-dark zodiac posters that look straight out of the backroom at Spencer’s.
Bringing over 13 years of experience manning wood-fired ovens at Roberta’s and most recently at their slice off-shoot, R Slice, chef John True is leading the kitchen here. But instead of slinging Neapolitan-style pies, the pizzas here are all Detroit. Using focaccia dough as a base, chef True cooks each pie twice in square pans, resulting in thick slices that are crisp on the bottom and caramelized at the top. Beyond tried-and-true cheese and pepperoni options, chef True will cook up burrata and soppressata-topped squares that harken back to his time at Roberta’s with a signature swirl of hot honey; as well as a buffalo chicken pizza with blue cheese crumbles and a Hawaiian pie with capicola, pineapple, ricotta, Calabrian chili and slices of green onions. But if you have a hunger that can’t be quit by pizza alone, there are also wings to be had, tossed in zesty Buffalo, savory teriyaki or garlic pesto sauces.
In need of a drink? Alongside a list of drafts, bottles and beer and shot combos, Jordan Dubey (previously of Hotel Chantelle) has drummed up seven cocktails for the sipping, including the vodka-based "Roasted Mint Lemonade" (mint, lemon and a few shakes of roasted black pepper) and the "Pineapple Express" (Cazadores tequila, pineapple, pomegranate, lime and firewater). Paying homage to the former tenant, the 1980s club named Palomino, the house drink of the same name comes with Ilegal Mezcal, grapefruit, lime and firewater.
Made to be a late-night hang, the pizzeria-slash-dive will stay open until the wee hours, with a takeout window that doesn’t shut down until 4am.