Restaurants in Red Hook: Where to eat in the Brooklyn neighborhood

There’s been much written about how Billy Durney’s Red Hook Tavern draws inspiration from New York institutions. The font used for the restaurant’s name could be mistaken for Minetta Tavern’s from afar, and there are two ales dedicated to McSorley’s. But once we secured a seat (if you manage to score a prime-time reservation, play the lottery), we quickly realized the experience here is its very own thing.

After an affable employee leads you down the narrow dining room or to one of the 18 bar seats, your first priority is to order the Dry Aged Red Hook Tavern Burger ($24). This pub-style burger is hefty but manageable. The simple dish—a dry-aged patty cloaked in American cheese and topped with raw white onions, then sandwiched between sesame rolls—is cooked to a perfect temperature. This juicy burger is one of the best we’ve tasted in the city.

It’s no surprise that the burger and the menu’s other meat options are also expertly executed. Durney showed off his expertise with proteins at Hometown Bar-B-Que, a popular destination despite its location in difficult-to-get-to Red Hook, that’s known for its ribs, brisket, sausages, pastrami and other barbecue dishes with global touches.

Executive chef Allison Plumer interprets the nostalgia that Red Hook Tavern strives for with an unfussy approach that results in plates you’ll want to devour on a cold winter day. The country-ham croquettes ($10), which are filled with white cheddar and sit atop a swath of dijonnaise, can be popped into your mouth like candy. The romaine wedge ($18) feels decadent, with its thick-cut applewood-smoked bacon draped across greens dressed in bleu cheese, pickled mustard seeds and a tangy buttermilk-herb dressing.

We felt the carnivore-centric menu veered toward the heavy side, especially when the “lightest” dish was the pan-roasted half chicken ($28)—though even that was nevertheless delightful and accompanied by a bed of mashed potatoes covered in a silky chicken gravy.

While Durney’s take on New York mainstays is admirable, the restaurant sets itself apart with its attentive service, which eschews the brusque treatment you get at Peter Luger Steak House, and it also takes a more modern approach to tavern dining (check out the natural wines). Just be prepared for an onslaught of meat because, after all, that’s what Durney and his team do best.

Jeremy Salamon's Agi's Counter charmed us with its leberkäse breakfast sandwich and its pâté and Hungarian pimento spread found on the Nosh Plate (that existed way before the phrase "girl dinner"). It seems he has delighted us yet again with the opening of Pitt's. Taking the train over to Red Hook, the restaurant brings Salamon's Southern upbringing to the bistro, with vintage china on the walls and oil paintings that give us all those whimsy feels. The food is just as fun, with complimentary Caraway Rolls, “Meatloaf” Tea Sandwiches and that Pancake Souffle that is well worth the 40-minute wait. 

Channeling Maine's minigolf clam shacks, this hulking 250-seat eatery brings putt-putt facilities and seaside tastes to Red Hook's waterfront. Elevated on stilts, the three-story stand-alone restaurant is done up with wharf-themed flourishes: lobster traps, fishing rods, Christmas lights and a mounted shark's head. Gather friends for a round of minigolf or cornhole (beanbag toss) outdoors. After hitting the greens, grab a picnic table and dig into simple coastal fare, such as peel-and-eat shrimp and steam pots brimming with lobster, Jonah crab and mussels, along with potatoes and corn. Drinkers can sip frozen daiquiris or split a bucket of beer (Corona, Bud) with pals on the open-air roof deck, which boasts clear views of New York's Upper Bay.

With more than a decade's worth of experience under its belt, this sprawling barbecue destination near the Red Hook waterfront is the best in New York City. Lines still form out the door for Hometown's brisket, ribs, pulled pork and all manner of sandwiches.