Where to eat on a Sunday

Montmartre was once peppered with flour-grinding windmills, and this modern restaurant (named after the Moulin de la Galette cabaret of which it was once a part) is set inside one of only two remaining mills – the other being private property just a few doors down on rue Lepic. A more more idyllic setting you will not find, with a sweet little courtyard draped in ivy. The food is contemporary French cuisine, such as pan-fried foie gras with lemongrass and juniper berries, or cochon de lait (suckling pig) with creamy potato purée. The desserts, such as caramelised figs and chocolate fondant, are beautifully presented. If you’re on a budget, opt for the set menus, and choose your wine carefully.

It's a bit of a scramble around Montmartre's stairways to get to this little Venezuelan restaurant, but it more than rewards the effort when the sun streams in through the big window, and chairs covered in flowered fabric cluster around wooden tables. A little kitchen takes up the rear bar area, while above it hangs a big blackboard scribbled with the arepas menu – traditional Venezuelan cornflour flatbreads, here filled like sandwiches. The welcome is hugely warm, and staff enthusiastically explain the arepas concept and various fillings, putting you immediately at ease. Arepas are between €6 and €8 – stuffed with things like duck, mango, mint, red onion and Peruvian chili, or chicken and avocado, or black beans, beef and Venezuelan cheese. The dozen or so fillings are difficult to choose from, served in huge portions with chips (potato, sweet potato or plantain) and fresh guacamole. Wash it all down with some passion fruit juice and feel like you've just had a refreshing shot of Venezuelan sunshine.

Italian fever has seized the north side of Montmartre’s Butte: there’s Trattoria Pulcinella on rue Eugène Sue, La Pulcinella and Locanda Pulcinella pizzeria on rue Damrémont; and as if that weren’t enough, another Italian, L’Angelo, has recently opened too. That’s a lot of choice; but don’t be daunted. The locals have already discerned the best. They keep coming back to Trattoria Pulcinella – for its generous plates of antipasti (€15), fine-based pizzas laden with fresh toppings (€12-€16), hearty pasta dishes (€14) and seriously delicious tiramisu (€6). Reserve a table before 8pm, or order a glass of sparkling lambrusco to pass the time while you queue.

A little canteen snuggled up against the Montmartre steps, Soul Kitchen is a delightful café-restaurant overseen by three charming, inspired lady chefs – just the sort of place you’d want as your local. You’d come and drink a creamy coffee and read the news of a morning in the company of the local retirees, and come at midday to eat lunch in great company, choosing from excellent ever-changing menu of homemade recipes made with organic local produce. In the afternoon, you’d hang out with your laptop and a pastry, or just sip a good glass of red before heading on elsewhere. There’s a birdcage from which dozens of paper butterflies are escaping, an old typewriter, a big bay window, trays groaning with food, pretty coloured furniture and a huge chalkboard menu. When we visited at lunchtime, we started with a comforting winter squash soup full of happily wallowing croutons, scattered with fried onions and accompanied by a sandwich of potted goose. There was also a fabulous ‘Granny’s pichade’, a thick pissaladière French pizza with tomatoes and pesto. Then two bowls of a beautiful, colourful pasta salad, followed by tarte tatin and fromage blanc with plum jam. All in gorgeous surroundings for €11.50 – it would be tough not to fall in love with Soul Kitchen.