The ultimate guide to Kampong Gelam

What Wanton did to wonton mee, The Coconut Club is doing to nasi lemak: taking the hawker staple up a notch and serving it in air-conditioned, design-savvy digs in the CBD. But wait, you’ll probably ask, why should I pay $12.80 for a plate of nasi lemak when I can tapow one for three bucks from the nearby Amoy Food Centre? When it tastes as good as the one your grandma used to make, hey – that’s reason enough. And as someone of Malay descent who grew up on the dish, I’ve to confess The Coconut Club’s take on it is legit.

It’s not done in the ‘Chinese’ style – which is essentially cai fan with an assortment of fried snacks heaped onto your rice – and neither does it resemble those pyramids of banana leaves, within which an anorexic ikan kuning is all the protein you’ll get. No, The Coconut Club’s version is the kind that a relative will slave over for a home-cooked feast. So expect less a mind-blowing twist on the classic than a straight-up, yet almost faultless, example of it.

Which means the nasi lemak comes with all the trimmings: a fried egg, ikan bilis, peanuts, cucumber, fried chicken and, of course, sambal. The restaurant sources coconuts from a single plantation in Sabak Bernam, Malaysia, to use in its dishes, although the rice, as fragrant as it is, could do with more lemak. The chicken thigh is coated in a turmeric-, lemongrass- and cumin-heavy rempah before hitting the fryer, and is way juicier and more tender than the ones at your kopitiam stall. The sambal isn’t the traditionally sweet kind, either – it’s slightly tangy and loaded with onions. If you’ve a friend visiting from overseas and making the trek to Changi Village or Adam Road is too much of a hassle, bring them here instead.

Don’t leave without ordering the otak-otak ($8.50) and fried fish. The former is aromatic and stuffed with chunks of real fish, while the latter – the actual fish used varies by day – is wonderfully moist and firm despite being deep fried. The only other thing on the menu, cendol ($3.80), is so gao and flavourful that, a colleague effuses, it’s ‘better than those in Penang’. High praise indeed.

It’s great that hawker staples are growing in stature as well as in price. There’s only so long that a makcik can sell her nasi lemak for $3 before rent climbs (or quality dives), her children find jobs elsewhere to compensate for the cost of living, and the dish gradually fades from our kopitiams.

Time Out Singapore reviews anonymously and pays for all meals. Read our restaurant review policy here.

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The cookies from Guilt are worth skipping your diets plans for. What started out as a home bakery specialising in gooey, chonky cookies has since grown into a full-fledged bakery along Arab Street. Founders Grace Kim and Kirsty Tang brings a touch of whimsy into each sweet creation ($4.50/ $5.50); you’ll find cheekily named cookies based off pop culture. Highlights include the Fifty Shades of Grey, an earl grey vanilla cookie with pistachio and white cocoa butter; Park Bench Jelly, made in collaboration with famed sandwich joint Park Bench Deli; and a coconut kayak cheesecake-inspired Kaya Jenner. 

Mother Dough is a force to be reckoned with when we're talking about the best croissants in Singapore. Previously active in the pop-up scene, the bakery eventually settled into a permanent place for their famous bakes and other goods. Besides the crowd favourite and fast-selling almond croissants ($4.20), take some time to give their other freshly baked goods a try. From the chocolate pound cake ($4/slice) to a simple baguette, everything here is baked to perfection. 

Having bakmi, or mie ayam at a street warung is the quintessential Jakarta experience – but we're not going to experience that anytime soon. Closer to home, head over to Kulon, the new kid on Bali Lane for a fix of the popular Indonesian street food. 

A good bowl of mie ayam would consist of springy al dente egg noodles, diced chicken cooked in soy sauce, chopped spring onions and served with simple and flavourful clear chicken broth – and a side of chilli. At Kulon, there are many variations of this beloved noodle dish. The noodle served here is of a thicker variation than the Indonesian street style – but absorbs the gravy perfectly. Have it the classic style with the Bakmi Bangka; or for if you crave stronger flavours, go for the Bakmi Gulai Sapi which incorporates the Javanese beef curry with the noodles. If spice is top priority, take your pick between the bakmi with red – or green – sambal. 

On the menu are also a selection of rice dishes and also burgers with a Javanese edge – think fried chicken burger with sambal – or a tempeh version as well. After a typical Indonesian meal, remember to wash it down with some cold teh botol (sweet jasmine tea) like the locals do. 

You don’t need to be from New York to have heard about The Halal Guys, a famous food truck empire known for serving up spice-scented meats with rice. And now, you don’t even need to travel far to get a taste of the dish. Closer to home, along Arab Street, four Singaporeans have decided to open a rice bowl café inspired by the iconic street cart. At Overrice, the menu bears resemblance to the greatest hits from The Halal Guys. Beef is slow-cooked to retain all its flavour, the chicken comes grilled simply, falafel balls are fried till golden and crispy. But the main draw here is the white sauce, a creamy, mysterious recipe that is used to drizzle over everything.

You might be greeted by Beyonce or Diana Ross when stepping into The Fabulous Baker Boy. These are just two of founder Juwanda Hassim’s creative cake creations; there are over 14 elegant tiered treats on display, each with an uncanny source of inspiration. From the aptly named Diva series, sample the Beyonce, a take on lemonade with layers of lemon and yoghurt sponge; or try Ms Celine Dione where Valrhona white chocolate and macadamia sponge comes sandwiched between fresh raspberries and raspberry compote.

Sticklers for tradition, Sari Ratu has got to be one of the more authentic places to get nasi padang in Singapore. Choices are aplenty at their main branch in Pahang Street so we don't blame you for taking your time when ordering! All time favourites include the rendang, eggplant in chilli, grilled chicken, fried fish and also the delightful beef tendon curry.

With an open-kitchen concept, Brine isn’t shy about its palatable plates. Here, the folks behind The Laneway Market dish out contemporary cuisine whipped up by chef Christopher Tan who has been finessing his French and Japanese techniques throughout his culinary journey. Sink your teeth into its dry-aged Angus ribeye served with onion jus and anchovy ($43), or opt for the smaller torched beef tartare with miso carrot and carrot chips ($16).

No visit to Kampong Glam is complete without a plate of glorious nasi padang. This Michelin Bib Gourmand listed Malay eatery serves favourites like tahu telor, Sundanese grilled chicken and beef rendang. If you’re really frugal with your choices – the more you order, the more it costs – a plate can set you back less than $10.

Halal Swedish food on Arab Street is a rare sight, and modern bostro Fika certainly stands out in the mostly traditional area dominated by shophouses and heritage businesses. Although many come for the halal Swedish meatballs that are served with roast potatoes and a dollop of lingonberry jam ($19), the desserts are the clear winner here. Tea-lovers will appreciate the personal pot service and eclectic selection of Gryphon teas. Avoid the unwieldy, open-faced sandwiches and stick with the sweet stuff: a just-right Swedish chocolate cake, Kladdkaka ($8) and Swedish pancakes with fresh berries ($13) go down a treat.

Fika Swedish Cafe & Bistro’s pâtisserie sister takes it bakes seriously – all freshly made from scratch by hand. With everything from red velvet croissant ($5.90) and sourdough brownie ($6) to the Swedish semla bun ($7.90) and customisable showstopping cakes to pair with your hot cup of joe, Konditori is the crème de la crème of bakeries in the ‘hood for European-influenced sweet treats.

There’s no preventing the pong of oil and fried dough clinging to your clothes the moment you step into this grungy shophouse unit. But it’s well worth the smell. Zam Zam has been serving up its biryani (from $6) and murtabak (from $5) for well over a century, so you can be pretty much assured of getting the legit stuff. But if it’s biryani you’re after, Zam Zam makes its version Hyderabadi dum style: the meat is cooked together with the orange-flecked basmati, which makes the rice that much more fragrant. 

Awarded a Bib Gourmand in 2016’s Micheline Guide, this Arab street-establishment is one of our favourites thanks to its extensive variety kebabs. The Karisik Kebab ($42) is a popular choice, but opt for the Ispanakli Pide ($18) to accompany your meats. It's the Turkish equivalent of a pizza filled with spinach and cheese. Also try the large Meze Tarbagi ($28), a cold appetiser platter packed with hummus, babakanus, saksuka patlican salata, ezme, yaprak sarmasi & rus salatasi, served with piping hot Turkish lavash bread.

This people-watching corner spot at Haji Lane also doubles as Dutch-inspired Halal café, I am. Scaling back on the breakfast-as-lunch fare elsewhere, its perpetual crowd flock to the restaurant for their selection of juicy burgers (from $12.90) including the charcoal fire-licked sloppy burger with a comfortingly messy sauce ($14.90) and sharing grub like melty chicken meatball Cheezy Bombs ($6.90) and baked garlic butter prawns ($10.90), all to kick start a day wandering through the street’s little retail nooks.

Think all American fried chicken is just KFC? Y’all got it wrong. Nashville-style country chicken is spicy as heck. Nashville hot chicken is typically marinated in buttermilk, fried and doused with a heavy application of cayenne pepper (often in the form of some magical pepper-infused oil), along with other spices like garlic and paprika. It is sometimes served on the bone with white bread and pickles – possibly to take off the heat a little. Curious? Save the plane ticket to ‘Merica, you can get some in Arab Street.

Let’s get the basics out of the way: this is a no-frills craft beer bar along Haji Lane that’s dark, dingy and about the size of a janitor’s storeroom. In other words, it’s a great spot to while away hours. Come evening, there are tables set up on the narrow street, so you’ll be able to quaff al fresco if that’s your thing. 

Opened late last year, Good Luck Beerhouse replaced Koi on the first level of a shophouse along Haji Lane. It’s set up by the same folks behind Shin Gi Tai, a cocktail joint hidden on the floor above it, but don’t come expecting a bowtied bartender whisking up fancy negronis in classy digs. You’re here because you’re a beer fiend. Or you’re in the area and are in desperate need of a cold one.

On typical nights, you’ll have eight beers on draft with which to acquaint yourself. On my visit, the taps repped the US (Stone Brewing), New Zealand (Zeffer Cider) and Singapore (Innocence Brewing and Crossroads Brewing), with styles ranging from IPAs to wheat beers to the more esoteric sour ales. Curiously, most suds are only sold by the pint ($15-$18), with half pours only available, according to the beer-tender, for brews ‘with high ABV’. 

Bottled beers ($12-$18) include labels like Yeastie Boys, 8 Wired Brewing, Founders Brewing, Orval and Anderson Valley that, given Singapore’s taking to craft beer, won’t sound too exotic to the experienced guzzler. But given a neon sign above the bar that reads ‘liang cha’, I ask about plans on stocking hyped-up Asian craft pours. ‘Err, in my opinion, they’re not as good,’ comes the barman’s hesitant reply. Take it any way you want – at least these guys are discerning about what they stock. 

Unfortunately, it doesn’t carry over into the food. A paper-thin menu of dim sum lists morsels such as char siew pau ($2), siew mai ($4.50) and chicken legs ($4), but you’d best avoid them. They’re rubbery, bland and taste like the insides of a microwave. Stick to the beer. 

Time Out Singapore reviews anonymously and pays for all meals.

The original Hvala outlet is in Chijmes, a stylish teahouse which has transformed brewing Japanese tea into a true art. It has since expanded a ton, opening up additional stores in Somerset, Craig Road, and Beach Road too – but one thing’s for sure: it’s a reliable spot where you can order up a frothy cup of freshly whisked matcha. Order its range of straight matcha, which is simply matcha that’s been whisked with water – no milk. This way, you can taste the pure notes of each matcha type: some are more robust, while others have a lingering mellow profile. 

Set up in 2009, Bar Stories is among the first in the wave of bars shaking up crafted drinks in the city, with ardent foodie, David Koh, now at the helm of its drinks-making operation.  Make reservations for prime seats in front of the bartender, and take the staircase next to The Crostini Bar to find Bar Stories. The small bar counter cleverly tucks you into a recessed space to make the conversation easy with the team, who take orders for bespoke cocktails (from $20) here. David keeps the programming organic and fluid by procuring interesting ingredients and inspirations like Kyoho grapes and kaya toast for the surprise drinks. 

It's an open secret – Bhai Sarbat serves up the best teh tarik in town and the long queues and crowds at the small stall on Bussorah Street is proof. Sweet, spicy and everything nice, the best way to round up your Kampong Gelam experience.

On a mission to bring Kyoto coffee magic to our shores, this café goes beyond the textbook espresso-based brews (from $4.50). It roasts its own house blend, comprising beans from Latin America, Africa and Europe, for a balanced, well-rounded flavour. If you’ve got a sweet tooth, the Spanish latte (from $7.80) – made with condensed milk – is your best bet.

Housed on the second floor of a quaint shophouse in Kampong Glam, IB HQ (or the Indigenous Bartender Headquarters) is run by husband and wife team Kamil Foltan and Zurina Bryant. Kamil has stirred and shaken at the likes of Tippling Club, The Black Swan and Potato Head but at IB HQ, his focus is on cocktails made using locally sourced ingredients prepared in a novel way. Drinks are priced at $24 and include an osmanthus gimlet and Bloody Maria, a twist on the classic mixed with umeshu, shoyu, hibiscus, calamansi and Kagome tomato instead.

It’s hard to miss Blu Jaz Café. Bathing the corner of Bali Lane with its bright blue neon lights, the alfresco joint typically attracts a bustling crowd of young and old with its regular live music sets and open mic sessions (when it's allowed to do so again). The space has hosted a list of household jazz names and impressive young talents. It's also a great place to kick back with a drink and catch up with some ol' pals.

No monkey business, only seriously good Indian food and cocktails at this joint on Bussorah Street. Served tapas-style, expect bites like tandoori chicken ($10) and tulsi cod ($15) fresh from the on-site tandoor. For big plates, the Nalli Gosht ($26) is a lamb shank dish that’s simmered overnight in a creamy peanut and cashew curry ‘til the meat falls off the bone. The cocktails are infused with Indian flavours, too. Expect drinks like the Goa Mamma Lassi – an alcoholic twist on the classic mango lassi – featuring a mix of mango, passion fruit, Aylesbury Vodka, Plantation Dark Rum, milk and yogurt.

This is indeed the ‘house of the moment’ (maison ikkoku) – artisanal coffees, Spam sushi and kong bak pau (a traditional Chinese pork belly sandwich) are served in the ground-floor space under half-sawn furniture hanging decoratively from the ceiling. A cocktail bar also resides on the top level, the fertile imagination of Ethan Leslie Leong, formerly of Drink Culture and nearby Bar Stories. Japanese ‘latte-art specialist’ Hiroshi Sawada trained the coffee baristas.

This Turkish handicraft store does not disappoint when it comes to pleasing our visual senses. Twinkling lights, hand painted homewares, mosaic lights  – your eyes are in for a treat. Situated along Bussorah Street, you’ll be able to find an unapologetic display of colourful knick knacks both outside and inside the store. Don’t forget to indulge in its wide selection of Turkish mosaic handmade lights as well. And in the case where you’re unable to find one that you like, fret not with their customisation option.

You’ll hear Musicology Records before you even see it. Walking down Haji Lane, find your way to it by simply following the music. This vinyl record store carries a wide range of genres, from the classics, to rock, city pop, and even one for Santa with a curated selection of Christmas records. Turntables are up for sale as well. And if you’re looking for more than just a shopping experience, be sure to attend their occasional spin sesh where invited DJs take the wheel to guarantee you a good time. 

Conscious living in the city is made easy with Everyday Vegan Grocer. Find a wide range of produce, snacks, beverages, sweets, and many more. With its dedicated selection of planet conscious and animal friendly products for everyday living, it’s safe to say anyone – vegans, vegetarians, or just plain foodies – can get their grocery fix there.

Whether you're shopping for birthday gifts, Christmas gifts, or for yourself, a good place to pick up some unique items is at Curbside Crafters. This curated lifestyle marketplace in Kampong Glam occupies two levels of a shophouse on North Bridge Road. In this bright and airy space, you'll find booths set up by local creatives and F&B businesses selling handcrafted wares alongside takeaway foods. 

Launch weekend on December 4 and 5 saw brands like Paper Palette Studio, noontide & night, Ozel, Manja Mao, The Designing Pat and d.atlas studio selling pretty apparel, beaded maskchains and necklaces, batik wear, whimsical cat-themed crafted items, resin jewellery, adorable stickers, notebooks and much more. To accompany the shopping, F&B brands like Bootleg Brew & Bakes and Chai Queen SG were also onsite serving up delicious cuppas and baked goods. 

Curbside Crafters was designed as a flexible space for aspiring creatives and entrepreneurs to share their works more widely, so you can expect to see a good mix of longstanding booths and new pop-ups. There's also a studio in the shophouse attic meant for creative workshops – so that's something else to look forward to. To stay in the loop on the retail booths, F&B brands and workshops available, follow Curbside Crafters on Instagram. 

Opened in 2016, Vintagewknd has set out on a mission to make vintage items accessible, affordable, and wearable, through their careful and meticulous curation of reworked vintage pieces. Listen up, all you students who want in on the sustainable fashion trend but are reluctant to burn a hole in their wallet for one(1) piece of vintage clothing, this is the place for you.

Prices range from $20 for a simple blouse to $60 for a pair of eye-catching checkered pants, and it doesn't stop there - Vintagewknd stocks a great collection of dresses, skirts, blazers, and even windbreakers. Fun fact: Almost every item created by Vintagewknd is a one-of-a-kind piece, so here's to walking around town feeling special in clothes no one else owns.

Most of their apparel can be bought online on their Instagram store, but occasionally, they do host warehouse sales where you get to go down and comb their racks for their limited edition pieces, coupled with a cozy fitting room to try them on.

Behind every batik fabric is a story. The meaning of ‘batik’ itself refers to the technique of making intricate patterns onto a piece of fabric. It is a delicate art and often a time-consuming one because so much thought and skill is put into making a sheet of batik fabric. The motifs on each piece of cloth also have meaning behind them – and this is what owner Oniatta Effendi showcases with every collection she releases. Whether it is a Merdeka jacket with parang (blade) prints which symbolises victory and power or a men’s shirt with the Garuda (a mythical bird) print which represents masculinity, it’s a joy to learn the stories being the garment you’re wearing.

Step into Sifr Aromatics and it comes to life in a heady riot of fragrance and colour, thanks to shelves of gorgeously designed bottles of perfume. Far from your ordinary perfumery, it offers a unique, customised approach. Expect a mix of natural and synthetic potions to give a well- rounded scent. A combination of five or more oils is then mixed, shaken, and bottled in 12-millilitre vials. Sifr has been featured on Lonely Planet and Conde Nast Traveler has called it “one of the finest custom perfumers in Southeast Asia”.

Bet you didn’t think of heading to Bussorah Street for some fishing essentials. This three-storey premium Japanese fishing store boasts myriad brands from the Land of the Rising Sun. Before you pack for your next fishing sesh, stock up on all the necessary equipment for luring, jigging and popping.

Tucked on the second floor of a shophouse in Haji Lane is The Nail Social, which, as its name suggests, is a socially conscious salon offering manicure, pedicure and foot massages. Founders Cheryl Ou and Germaine Monteiro set it up in 2014 with the aim of employing and training underprivileged local women. The pair were experienced nail technicians prior to setting up The Nail Social, and they make sure each customer feels at ease: there’s no lack of conversation, but you’re left to your own devices if you’d prefer things that way. Variety is the operative word here. There are close to 100 colours in both the regular and gel ranges. Guests also receive an iPad loaded with Netflix, games and books. And you can’t knock the free homemade lemonade and wine (the latter only on Fridays and Saturdays).

It’s ribbons galore at Kin Soon, otherwise known as Minton House of Ribbons, where shelves overflow with colourful strips of material. This family business has been in the industry since 1975, and it’s also a wholesaler for ribbons and packaging materials, where you can pick up a full roll for only a dollar. For wholesale purchases, you might get up to 20 percent off your purchase, depending on the quantity. Customisation services are available, too, with an average of one to two weeks waiting time.