Masjid Sultan
Photograph: Richie Chan/Shutterstock
Photograph: Richie Chan/Shutterstock

The ultimate guide to Kampong Gelam

Kampong Glam is home to heritage businesses contrasted against cool cafes, hidden cocktail bars and cuisine from all over the world

Cam KhalidMingli Seet
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Kampong Glam was once reigned by Malay Sultans, but those days are long gone. The neighbourhood has since transformed into one of Singapore's oldest (and hippest) enclaves. Named after the gelam tree, Kampong Glam was once an ethnic enclave for the Muslim community in the 1800s. Now, it's a melting pot of vibrant cultures from all over the world, majestic cultural buildings, eye-popping street art, a myriad of restaurants and bars, and trendy shops. 

RECOMMENDED: Ultimate guide to Singapore's neighbourhoods and the ultimate guide to Bugis

Do

  • Things to do
  • Rochor

Closed for redevelopment works until 2025

Step through the doors of what was once the royal seat of Singapore’s sultans. Trace the rich history of the Malay community from the days of its earliest settlers and the sea-faring might of the Bugis villagers to the golden years of the Malay entertainment industry. Feed your mind with well-preserved historical artefacts, interactive exhibitions, and the occasional cultural performance and showcase.

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The first sultan of Singapore Sultan Hussein Shah built this magnificent mosque In 1824 next to his palace, Istana Kampong Gelam. It’s the biggest mosque in the city, accommodating up to 5,000 people in mass prayer. Look for the curious features at the base of the dome, which is composed of many glass bottles. Visitors are also welcome to enter but not during prayer services, including Friday prayers.

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  • Art
  • Rochor
Aliwal Arts Centre
Aliwal Arts Centre

Here's where arts companies call home including Nine Years Theatre (behind the recent Mandarin rendition of Twelve Angry Men), The A Cappella Society, Word Forward (organisers of the annual Lit Up Festival), Chinese Opera Institute Chew Keng Hao and Re: Dance Theatre, amongst others. Group facilities are available, including rehearsal rooms (which can be made into private black box theatres) and a main theatre for full-on productions. You can also find Coda Culture and Cuturi Gallery around the corner. There are also plenty of photo opportunities within the vicinity if you're looking to freshen up the 'gram.

  • Art
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Scooch on down to the back alleys of Muscat Street for a rad hidden gem, an outdoor art gallery. Two parallel walls burst with a kaleidoscope of colour thanks to over 30 Instagram-worthy works by artists from the region and beyond. Admire the pop culture-dominated creation by multi-disciplinary artist PrettyFreakyFantasy or take a snap of a bold, terrestrial piece by graphic designer Liyana Farzana before exiting to Baghdad Street.

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  • Things to do
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Haji Lane is something of a photobooth hotspot. You can easily take your pick among the many venues scattered along the street, but one of the best is Solace Studios which features nine different rooms spanning over two levels at their new Haji Lane outlet. The first level has five classic rooms with different coloured backgrounds, while the second level consists of four rooms that allow you to take pictures from a low angle or with a fisheye lens. Like other photo booths, Solace Studios also has a brightly lit vanity area complete with large mirrors, hair dryers, and straighteners where you can primp before taking a shot. Both floors also feature a props area, stocking anything from cute Sanrio headbands and hats to Y2K-themed items such as digital cameras and matrix sunglasses.

Don't leave without decorating your photo strop using Sharpies of various colours provided for you within the studio. 

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Time travelling may be impossible as of now, but Type8ar gives us a taste of what it would be like. Find this space tucked away on the second floor along the streets of Haji Lane with its impressive collection of over 50 vintage typewriters – a haven for analogue enthusiasts and typewriter lovers. Feast your eyes on a transparent Royal typewriter that was used in the United States prison, or perhaps the MusicWriter that was specifically used to type music scores. 

The best part? It is not just a museum. One can try your hand at typing your very own note, or if you’re looking for something more in-depth, opt for their workshop to learn the basic workings and history behind the classic machine and bring home a personal typewritten memorabilia at $48 per participant. The typewriters are also available for rent on-site at $18 for 30 mins, $28 for 60 mins and $38 for 120 mins, with complimentary beverage and unlimited supply to papers, card stock, stationeries and whatnot. So if you have something to say, why not try typing it out on a click-clack machine for a change? 

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  • Things to do
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Give Peninsula Plaza a miss and head down to this one-of-a-kind museum instead. Boasting a repository of over 1000 vintage cameras, the museum is the first gallery in Singapore that's dedicated to a collection of the analog instrument – in fact, the building itself resembles a massive Rollei camera. On display is everything from novel old-school spy cameras – think James Bond – to pistol cameras. Besides equipment, the museum also showcases retro photographs, interesting nuggets on photography, and an authentic replica of the first-ever picture taken on a camera.

  • Things to do

Aliwal Street is the birthplace and namesake of Aliwal Chess Club (ACC). Made up of seven 20-something-year-olds, ACC has been holding public chess meet-ups in Kampong Gelam since November 2021 which has, at one point, blown up into a gathering of over 80 people. Whether you're a novice or a grandmaster, you're welcome to play at its laidback street chess meets or attend its more elaborate pop-up events, which can include retail markets, live performances, and fun chess variations and chess-inspired games. Follow Aliwal Chess Club on its Instagram to stay updated on all its happenings. 

 

Eat

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  • 3 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended

If you're not already aware, beloved The Coconut Club on Ann Siang Hill has moved to a new location on Beach Road. This restaurant is infamous for its $12.80 plate of nasi lemak – but that price is still one that we're willing to pay. The nasi lemak here comes with all the trimmings: a fried egg, ikan bilis, peanuts, cucumber, fried chicken and, of course, sambal. The restaurant sources coconuts from a single plantation in Sabak Bernam, Malaysia, to use in its dishes, although the rice, as fragrant as it is, could do with more lemak. The chicken thigh is coated in a turmeric-, lemongrass- and cumin-heavy rempah before hitting the fryer, and is way juicier and more tender than the ones at your kopitiam stall. The sambal isn’t the traditionally sweet kind, either – it’s slightly tangy and loaded with onions. If you’ve a friend visiting from overseas and making the trek to Changi Village or Adam Road is too much of a hassle, bring them here instead.

  • Mexican
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Huevos started as an online business in 2019 but moved into a physical space in 2021 following skyrocketing demand during the pandemic. Rock up to the space on any given evening and you're guaranteed to find a snaking queue of young and hungry customers. Headed up by chef co-founders Aaron Poh, Aloysius Chan and Nathaniel Moi, this Mexican place has gained a loyal following for unpretentious, tasty fare served in generous portions.

The menu at Huevos is substantial, with a diverse selection of antojitos (street food), starters, sides, mains, desserts and drinks. There are a handful of must-tries, especially if it's your first time. We recommend starting with the Loaded Nachos ($20), which comes with chicken chunks, chipotle aioli, and aged Mexican cheese alongside the usual suspects of guacamole and pico de gallo, pickled jalapeno, and onions. For mains, you'll do well with the Baja fish tacos (from $14), the birria beef tacos (from $15), and a quesadilla, of which we hear that the Trinity Mushroom quesadilla is the standout. There's an interesting drinks selection too, including the Michelada ($19), a curious mix of beer, agave honey, Clamato, Worcestershire, hot sauce, lime, and tamarind.  

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  • Indonesian
  • Rochor

Having bakmi, or mie ayam at a street warung is the quintessential Jakarta experience – but we're not going to experience that anytime soon. Closer to home, head over to Kulon, the new kid on Bali Lane for a fix of the popular Indonesian street food. 

A good bowl of mie ayam would consist of springy al dente egg noodles, diced chicken cooked in soy sauce, chopped spring onions and served with simple and flavourful clear chicken broth – and a side of chilli. At Kulon, there are many variations of this beloved noodle dish. The noodle served here is of a thicker variation than the Indonesian street style – but absorbs the gravy perfectly. Have it the classic style with the Bakmi Bangka; or for if you crave stronger flavours, go for the Bakmi Gulai Sapi which incorporates the Javanese beef curry with the noodles. If spice is top priority, take your pick between the bakmi with red – or green – sambal. 

On the menu are also a selection of rice dishes and also burgers with a Javanese edge – think fried chicken burger with sambal – or a tempeh version as well. After a typical Indonesian meal, remember to wash it down with some cold teh botol (sweet jasmine tea) like the locals do. 

  • Malay
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No visit to Kampong Glam is complete without a plate of glorious nasi padang. This Michelin Bib Gourmand listed Malay eatery serves favourites like tahu telor, Sundanese grilled chicken and beef rendang. If you’re really frugal with your choices – the more you order, the more it costs – a plate can set you back less than $10.

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  • Bakeries
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Mother Dough is a force to be reckoned with when we're talking about the best croissants in Singapore. Previously active in the pop-up scene, the bakery eventually settled into a permanent place for their famous bakes and other goods. Besides the crowd favourite and fast-selling almond croissants ($4.20), take some time to give their other freshly baked goods a try. From the chocolate pound cake ($4/slice) to a simple baguette, everything here is baked to perfection. 

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You don’t need to be from New York to have heard about The Halal Guys, a famous food truck empire known for serving up spice-scented meats with rice. And now, you don’t even need to travel far to get a taste of the dish. Closer to home, at their new digs on Sultan Gate, four Singaporeans run a rice bowl café inspired by the iconic street cart. At Overrice, the menu bears resemblance to the greatest hits from The Halal Guys. Beef is slow-cooked to retain all its flavour, the chicken comes grilled simply, falafel balls are fried till golden and crispy. But the main draw here is the white sauce, a creamy, mysterious recipe that is used to drizzle over everything.

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  • Cafés
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Located along Sultan Gate, this cosy café can be found on the second floor above Muslim-owned eatery Overrice. Sink into plush seats and enjoy Siësta's signature item: toasties. Indulge in the savoury Beefin' It Up ($16) or opt for Cinnamon Girl ($10) if you have a sweet tooth. Pair your toastie with one of the cleverly named drinks inspired by pop culture moments such as Shrek's Love Potion ($8), a dirty matcha latte with a dash of cinnamon, or Heart Racing ($8), a homemade brown sugar milk tea that's sure to give you a sugar rush. Grab a friend and play card games while you're at Siësta, or if you're alone, the staff are more than happy to play a round with you.

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Fika Café
Fika Café

Halal Swedish food on Arab Street is a rare sight, and modern bostro Fika certainly stands out in the mostly traditional area dominated by shophouses and heritage businesses. Although many come for the halal Swedish meatballs that are served with roast potatoes and a dollop of lingonberry jam ($19), the desserts are the clear winner here. Tea-lovers will appreciate the personal pot service and eclectic selection of Gryphon teas. Avoid the unwieldy, open-faced sandwiches and stick with the sweet stuff: a just-right Swedish chocolate cake, Kladdkaka ($8) and Swedish pancakes with fresh berries ($13) go down a treat.

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  • Cafés
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Fika Swedish Cafe & Bistro’s pâtisserie sister takes it bakes seriously – all freshly made from scratch by hand. With everything from red velvet croissant ($5.90) and sourdough brownie ($6) to the Swedish semla bun ($7.90) and customisable showstopping cakes to pair with your hot cup of joe, Konditori is the crème de la crème of bakeries in the ‘hood for European-influenced sweet treats.

  • Indian
  • Rochor

There’s no preventing the pong of oil and fried dough clinging to your clothes the moment you step into this grungy shophouse unit. But it’s well worth the smell. Zam Zam has been serving up its biryani (from $6) and murtabak (from $5) for well over a century, so you can be pretty much assured of getting the legit stuff. But if it’s biryani you’re after, Zam Zam makes its version Hyderabadi dum style: the meat is cooked together with the orange-flecked basmati, which makes the rice that much more fragrant. 

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  • Middle Eastern
  • Rochor
Alaturka Mediterranean & Turkish Restaurant
Alaturka Mediterranean & Turkish Restaurant

Awarded a Bib Gourmand in 2016’s Micheline Guide, this Arab street-establishment is one of our favourites thanks to its extensive variety kebabs. The Karisik Kebab ($42) is a popular choice, but opt for the Ispanakli Pide ($18) to accompany your meats. It's the Turkish equivalent of a pizza filled with spinach and cheese. Also try the large Meze Tarbagi ($28), a cold appetiser platter packed with hummus, babakanus, saksuka patlican salata, ezme, yaprak sarmasi & rus salatasi, served with piping hot Turkish lavash bread.

  • Chicken
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Think all American fried chicken is just KFC? Y’all got it wrong. Nashville-style country chicken is spicy as heck. Nashville hot chicken is typically marinated in buttermilk, fried and doused with a heavy application of cayenne pepper (often in the form of some magical pepper-infused oil), along with other spices like garlic and paprika. It is sometimes served on the bone with white bread and pickles – possibly to take off the heat a little. Curious? Save the plane ticket to ‘Merica, you can get some in Arab Street.

Drink

  • Cafés
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Teh tarik is a local fave that we’ve never given a second thought – just because it's so commonly found in hawker centres. It’s no bubble tea nor coconut shake, yet this cosy hole-in-the-wall cafe along Arab Street has taken it upon itself to forge a trendy teh tarik comeback. It's takeaway-only, though you can visit it's new dine-in spot by the same name on Bali Lane. Here, you can get classic teh tarik ($1.50) and other drinks like a saffron tea ($2) and teh halia ($1.80). They also do food – you can get a delish nasi lemak and nasi sambal goreng, both at $4, and a nasi briyani on Fridays (from $6.50). 

  • Rochor
  • 3 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended

Quaff down the best of local craft beers at Good Luck Beerhouse. The bar takes up a small unit on Haji Lane, but most prefer to relax with a pint at the al fresco tables. On a typical night, you have 12 craft beers on tap – all carefully curated from Singapore's top microbreweries. Since it's early days, Good Luck Beerhouse has also expanded its drinks menu to include cocktails as well as sake from Sakechan which you can try by the carafe or bottle. There's good grub to keep the hunger pangs at bay too – Fatt Choy Eating House supply dim sum dishes like ngoh hiang rolls and mala kaarage and more hefty options like XO carrot cake and dry laksa. 

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  • Japanese
  • City Hall

The original Hvala outlet is in Chijmes, a stylish teahouse which has transformed brewing Japanese tea into a true art. It has since expanded a ton, opening up additional stores in Somerset, Craig Road, and Beach Road too – but one thing’s for sure: it’s a reliable spot where you can order up a frothy cup of freshly whisked matcha. Order its range of straight matcha, which is simply matcha that’s been whisked with water – no milk. This way, you can taste the pure notes of each matcha type: some are more robust, while others have a lingering mellow profile. 

  • Clubs
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Set up in 2009, Bar Stories is among the first in the wave of bars shaking up crafted drinks in the city, with ardent foodie, David Koh, now at the helm of its drinks-making operation.  Make reservations for prime seats in front of the bartender, and take the staircase next to The Crostini Bar to find Bar Stories. The small bar counter cleverly tucks you into a recessed space to make the conversation easy with the team, who take orders for bespoke cocktails (from $20) here. David keeps the programming organic and fluid by procuring interesting ingredients and inspirations like Kyoho grapes and kaya toast for the surprise drinks. 

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It's an open secret – Bhai Sarbat serves up the best teh tarik in town and the long queues and crowds at the small stall on Bussorah Street is proof. Sweet, spicy and everything nice, the best way to round up your Kampong Gelam experience.

  • Cafés
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On a mission to bring Kyoto coffee magic to our shores, this café goes beyond the textbook espresso-based brews (from $4.50). It roasts its own house blend, comprising beans from Latin America, Africa and Europe, for a balanced, well-rounded flavour. If you’ve got a sweet tooth, the Spanish latte (from $7.80) – made with condensed milk – is your best bet.

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  • Music
  • Music venues
  • Rochor

It’s hard to miss Blu Jaz Café. Bathing the corner of Bali Lane with its bright blue neon lights, the alfresco joint typically attracts a bustling crowd of young and old with its regular live music sets and open mic sessions (when it's allowed to do so again). The space has hosted a list of household jazz names and impressive young talents. It's also a great place to kick back with a drink and catch up with some ol' pals.

  • Clubs
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If you haven't visited Maison Ikkoku in recent times, then take this as a sign to do so. The 12-year fixture on Kandahar Street reopened recently as Maison Ikkoku 2.0, with a swish new look and menu. The revamped bar area now sports a back bar installation that's inspired by the love lock bridges on the Pont des Arts in Paris. Instead of love locks professing everlasting love, Maison Ikkoku's take features an impressive collection of hanging spirit bottles.

Maison Ikkoku 2.0 stands out for its selection of in-house gins composed and distilled by founding bartender Ethan himself. There are six of these one-of-a-kind gins to try, the newest being a milk and honey gin inspired by The Holy Bible. Another special to try is the Jon Loken gin, which Ethan distilled from herbs that were handpicked in Norway. And for the gin enthusiasts out there, you can also distill your own unique bottle of gin at a new bespoke gin workshop. 

 

Shop

  • Shopping
  • Music and entertainment
  • City Hall

You’ll hear Musicology Records before you even see it. Walking down Haji Lane, find your way to it by simply following the music. This vinyl record store carries a wide range of genres, from the classics, to rock, city pop, and even one for Santa with a curated selection of Christmas records. Turntables are up for sale as well. And if you’re looking for more than just a shopping experience, be sure to attend their occasional spin sesh where invited DJs take the wheel to guarantee you a good time. 

  • Shopping
  • Bookshops
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Rightfully located in the heart of Kampong Gelam is Wardah Books, a sanctuary for those who wish to immerse in Islamic thought and literature. The bookshop specialises in books on Islam in English, boasting more than 4000 titles across history, philosophy, literature and the arts. In its beautiful shophouse space on Busorah Street, there is even a nook dedicated to books for children. Visit to browse Wardah Books’ extensive collection or to steal a pocket of quiet reading time, and stay up to date with its book clubs and reading sessions via its official website.

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  • Shopping
  • Rochor

The rugged, hiking aesthetic is all the rage now. But Outside's new Bali Lane store is also for the serious, outdoorsy types. This sprawling two-storey destination makes for a comprehensive stop for camping and outdoor enthusiasts, stocking high-quality gear from prominent brands such as Snow Peak, Keen, Arthefact, Hoka, F-reitag, Toyo Steel Japan, Cayl, Thor, Dirty Manners, and more. Thanks to its expansive layout, we can see this store being a new hub for the outdoor community too. 

  • Shopping
  • Vintage shops
  • Rochor

Opened in 2016, Vintagewknd has set out on a mission to make vintage items accessible, affordable, and wearable, through their careful and meticulous curation of reworked vintage pieces. Prices range from $20 for a simple blouse to $60 for a pair of eye-catching checkered pants, and it doesn't stop there – Vintagewknd stocks a great collection of dresses, skirts, blazers, and even windbreakers. Fun fact: Almost every item created by Vintagewknd is a one-of-a-kind piece, so here's to walking around town feeling special in clothes no one else owns.

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  • Shopping
  • Second-hand shops
  • Rochor

Looking for places to thrift? Be sure not to give Kaeru Thrift a miss. All the curated finds here are sourced from Japan, and brought to you at affordable prices starting from $8.

Owner Portia ensures that all prices are kept low to live up to the name 'thrift'. You'll be able to find dresses, one-of-a-kind blouses, pants, skirts, and button-ups. Racks are restocked often to keep things fresh. Follow them on their Instagram for the latest updates on restocks and more.

 

  • Shopping
  • Vintage shops
  • Rochor

If you haven't caught on yet, Kampong Gelam is something of a thrift heaven. And if T-shirts, hoodies, and sweaters are more up your alley, then Fibres Friction is the secondhand shop for you. Here's where you can find curated collections of vintage apparel from brands such as Nike and even Yves Saint Laurent. The store frequently hosts Open Racks too – it's a curated vintage shopping event featuring other local vintage stores and vendors.  

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  • Shopping
  • Chocolate and sweets
  • Rochor

Bears & Friends is gummy heaven. This store stocks more than 80 flavours of gummies imported from Germany, ranging from classics like fruit juice gummy bears and sour coca-cola gummies, to unique ones such as Mastermind (a brain-shaped gummy with a sour strawberry filling), honey bee gummies, coffee gummies, and even alcoholic flavours. You can buy many of the flavours in individual packets, but you'll have more fun grabbing a plastic cup which you can stuff to the brim. You then hand it over at the cashier where it's weighed and priced – this pick and mix option starts from $2.50/50g (minimum purchase of 150g). 

  • Shopping
  • Grocery stores
  • City Hall

Conscious living in the city is made easy with Everyday Vegan Grocer. Find a wide range of produce, snacks, beverages, sweets, and many more. With its dedicated selection of planet conscious and animal friendly products for everyday living, it’s safe to say anyone – vegans, vegetarians, or just plain foodies – can get their grocery fix there.

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  • Shopping
  • Art, craft and hobbies
  • Rochor

This Turkish handicraft store does not disappoint when it comes to pleasing our visual senses. Twinkling lights, hand painted homewares, mosaic lights  – your eyes are in for a treat. Situated along Bussorah Street, you’ll be able to find an unapologetic display of colourful knick knacks both outside and inside the store. Don’t forget to indulge in its wide selection of Turkish mosaic handmade lights as well. And in the case where you’re unable to find one that you like, fret not with their customisation option.

  • Shopping
  • Gifts and souvenirs
  • Rochor

Step into Sifr Aromatics and it comes to life in a heady riot of fragrance and colour, thanks to shelves of gorgeously designed bottles of perfume. Far from your ordinary perfumery, it offers a unique, customised approach. Expect a mix of natural and synthetic potions to give a well- rounded scent. A combination of five or more oils is then mixed, shaken, and bottled in 12-millilitre vials. Sifr has been featured on Lonely Planet and Conde Nast Traveler has called it “one of the finest custom perfumers in Southeast Asia”.

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  • Shopping
  • Art, craft and hobbies
  • Rochor

Whether you're shopping for birthday gifts, Christmas gifts, or for yourself, a good place to pick up some unique items is at Curbside Crafters. This curated lifestyle marketplace in Kampong Glam occupies two levels of a shophouse on North Bridge Road. In this bright and airy space, you'll find booths set up by local creatives and F&B businesses selling handcrafted wares alongside takeaway foods. 

Curbside Crafters was designed as a flexible space for aspiring creatives and entrepreneurs to share their works more widely, so you can expect to see a good mix of longstanding booths and new pop-ups. There's also a studio in the shophouse attic meant for creative workshops – so that's something else to look forward to. To stay in the loop on the retail booths, F&B brands and workshops available, follow Curbside Crafters on Instagram

  • Shopping
  • Fashion
  • Rochor

Behind every batik fabric is a story. The meaning of ‘batik’ itself refers to the technique of making intricate patterns onto a piece of fabric. It is a delicate art and often a time-consuming one because so much thought and skill is put into making a sheet of batik fabric. The motifs on each piece of cloth also have meaning behind them – and this is what owner Oniatta Effendi showcases with every collection she releases. Whether it is a Merdeka jacket with parang (blade) prints which symbolises victory and power or a men’s shirt with the Garuda (a mythical bird) print which represents masculinity, it’s a joy to learn the stories being the garment you’re wearing.

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