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Robin Wagner of Penfolds Magill Estate Restaurant announced the S.Pellegrino Young Chef winner for 2022

And he did it with a vegan dish. No, really.

Written by
Elizabeth McDonald
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From 6am on October 17 down at the Sydney Fish Markets, ten chefs under the age of 30 competed in the San Pellegrino Young Chef Awards, representing the Pacific region competition by each cooking one dish.

Venison (possibly or possibly not smuggled) from New Zealand – the marrow smoked and whipped into a mousse then served in a femur bone by Jackson Mehlhopt of Tussock Hill Cellar Door and Restaurant – took out the Connection in Gastronomy.

Alexis Belmas, a pastry chef at Queensland’s La Petit Souris, took out the Award for Social Responsibility with his dish of Western Breeze Over Oz. Leidy Carolina Maldonado Ramirez nabbed the Community Award with her take on Ensalda de Payaso "Clown Salad", a sentimental street-food dish from her home in Colombia.

Top gong however went to Robin Wagner of Penfolds Magill Estate Restaurant in South Australia, and he did it with a vegan dish. His clever and considered dish of smoked celeriac with granny smith apple and crisp taro was the dish of the day, with the judges singing their praises at an evening ceremony at Seta restaurant later on October 17. That judging panel includes Jacqui Challinor, executive chef of Nomad Sydney and Melbourne; influential seafood pioneer, Saint Peter’s Josh Niland; and renowned fine-dining master, Peter Gilmore of Quay.

“That dish was the best dish I’ve had all year,” said Niland. Wagner will now go on to cook in Milan for the world title in 2023.

Have you heard? We've chosen our absolute favourite venues in the Time Out Sydney Food and Drink Awards. Peep the winners here.

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