Bondi might be brimming with Italian restaurants, but just a few suburbs along it's a bit harder to find great beachside pasta. This makes the arrival of Osteria Coogee a very welcome one. It's set to bring aperitivo hours, plates of handmade pappardelle and Spritz to the 2034. Headed up by chef Regan Porteous (previously of Stanton and Co, Toko and Riley St Garage) with help from his partner and venue manager Carolina Angelucci, plus head chef Stefano Gagliardi, the Osteria will be whipping bottarga and serving it with crunchy crostini, seasoning kingfish crudo with lemon and parsley, and grilling octopus with 'nduja and white beans. Alongside modern Italian riffs are classics like burrata with pesto, lamb ragu pasta, a 250-gram wagyu flank steak served with gorgonzola, and of course the ultimate pick-me-up dessert, tiramisu.