In 1995, Lucila Bernal, a young migrant from the Philippines, opened a small grocer with a handful of tables serving homestyle Filipino food in Rooty Hill. Imagine what she’d think if she knew what was to come. In the next three decades, she would raise two sons, giving them a cultural and culinary education on the floor of her restaurant. She would take her parents’ recipes, forged on the grills and bain-maries of a Filipino street stall, and serve them to countless families over multiple generations. Her two sons would take over the restaurant, adding memey behind-the-scenes social media footage to the list of things that make The Kamayan famous. And, she would see her restaurant become a home away from home for countless Filipinos missing the taste of a home-cooked meal.
The vibe
The most unpretentious community hangout, with all ages, job titles and dress codes welcome and represented. You order at the front, and instead of a menu, you're greeted by a bain marie selection with a colour gradient that tells of long hours on the stove, and behind it, a hefty charcoal grill. On weekends, it’s rowdy with chatter and occasional queues snaking from the counter, through the middle of the restaurant and out the door. A different line of people come and go from another counter, near the entrance, where there’s a barista and fridge spruiking coconut pies and ube cakes.
The food
If you’re Filipino, all you need to know is all the carenderia classics are represented, made with a culinary philosophy that values comfort over subtlety. If you’re not, expect a rotating, 15-strong selection of bain-marie options dominated by rich and vinegar-laced stews, a meaty barbecue selection, and noodle recipes fit for the all-age crowd. The regulars will tell you the lechon kawali (deep-fried pork belly), kare kare (a powerfully savoury peanut stew), dinuguan (a garlic, blood and vinegar-enriched pork stew the colour of olives) and palabok (thin, soft noodles with a thick and velvety sauce coloured by breadcrumbs and annatto) are particularly wise choices.
The drinks
Halo halo is barely a drink but as the chaotically topped shaved ice dish is often served with a straw, we’re including it here. This one is particularly generous on the ube (mashed and semi-sweet) and flan, and, like everything here, large.
Time Out tip
The Kamayan may be historic and homey in a way few other restaurants are, but, as Lawrence Bernal (one of the brothers who run the place) says, it’s not the only special Filipino hangout in the West. “The sense of strength and pride in the Filipino community here is so strong. It’s not just this restaurant that is doing something special, there are so many in Blacktown and Rooty Hill.” If you’re planning a local food crawl, stop by Mama Lor for lechon and hopia ube, Cuisina de Manila for crispy pata and, down the road in Eastern Creek, Sir Manong for barbecue chicken and calamansi lime juice.
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