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Things you didn't know about steak

Learn more about marbling grades, the importance of cow feed as well as the differences between dry-aged and wet-aged beef

Written by
Time Out KL editors
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What’s all the fuss about marbling grades?
As advised by Benjamin Halat, chef de cuisine of Mandarin Grill
‘The marbling grade defines the fat condensation inside the meat – the higher the marbling grade, the juicier, tenderer and more flavourful the piece of meat. Of course, the meat becomes more expensive as the marbling grade increases, but in terms of preparation, there’s not much difference in terms of readying meats with lower or higher marbling grades. The most important thing is to have a nice, hot charcoal grill for the added smokiness. It’s also recommended to serve steak medium rare to rare as meat, regardless of marbling grades, becomes drier the longer you cook it.’

What is Kobe beef and why is it so highly prized?
As advised by How Yoke Seng, executive chef of Kampachi
‘In Japan, there are four breeds of wagyu, and Kuroge Washu [also known as Japanese Black] is one of the largest breeds in Japan. Kobe beef takes on the dominant Japanese Black wagyu strain genetics called Tajima. Raised in Hyogo Prefecture, Kobe is the capital and the meat’s brand. The superior marbling traits have set a benchmark for wagyu breeding outside of Japan by international authorities.

‘Kobe beef is highly prized because its breed has maintained a pure lineage since the Edo period. The Tajima cattle are properly fed and tended for three years to meet the Kobe beef standards. In terms of taste, Kobe beef gives you a melt-in-the-mouth experience because of the wide distribution of fat in the meat. At Kampachi, we highly recommend customers to opt for medium rare to savour the beef’s buttery richness.’

Why is cow feed so important and how does it affect the meat’s texture and taste?
As advised by Antoine Rodriguez, executive chef of Le Méridien Kuala Lumpur
‘The type of cow feed is important because it contributes to the texture and nutrients of the meat. In comparison to grain-fed cattle, grass-fed cattle produce leaner meat because they’re left to roam in the field. The grain-feeding method is used to quicken the growth of the cattle to produce more meat.

‘If the cattle are grain-fed, their meat will have a rich marbling of fat, which makes it more flavourful. Because it has a higher fat content, the meat is easier to chew. Most diners prefer grain-fed cuts, but the grass-fed cattle/meat is slowly returning to restaurant menus because people are becoming more conscious about their food intake.’

What are the differences between dry-aged beef and wet-aged beef?

As advised by Danny Choi, co-owner of Beato Steakhouse
Ageing is an important process during which connective tissue is broken down to tenderise the meat, but steak enthusiasts are usually split between preference for dry-ageing and wet-ageing. Dry-ageing is a process in which fresh beef is hung in near-freezing temperatures for a lengthy period. During this time, fungi cling to the meat’s surface to form a dry, hard crust which is discarded before cooking. It’s not as gross as it sounds; this ‘breathing’ process allows the meat’s natural juices and flavours to be sealed into the meat, and it works especially well with fatty cuts. Hence, cooked dry-aged beef doesn’t release blood or juice when cut but instead spurts a syrupy sweetness when bitten into. Meanwhile, wet-aged beef is aged in its own juices in a tightly sealed bag. This results in a more intense bloodiness when cooked, and works well with lean cuts like tenderloin.

Where to have steak in KL

  • Restaurants
  • KL City Centre
  • price 4 of 4
For a balanced dose of grandeur and premium cow, here’s your answer. Decked out in a sleek setting overlooking the twinkle of the Twin Towers, Marble 8 is where you eat steak in the company of the affluent. Australian wagyu and Angus are shipped in before being dry-aged in a cellar for a minimum of 21 days; we suggest you have your meats simply paired with béarnaise or beef jus with Shiraz. Complete the blow-out affair with a drink in the glittery confines of M8, the accompanying cocktail bar.
  • Restaurants
  • Steakhouse
  • Solaris Dutamas
  • price 4 of 4
Koreans Danny Choi and JK are two steak disciples who have arrived in KL to sing the gospels of dry-aged beef. The boys ship in fresh beef from Australia before it’s dry-aged in a hanging cellar for a couple of weeks to ensure the meat’s natural juices are locked in before cooking. The ribeye in particular is stunningly executed when ordered medium rare; it manages to seal in the cattle’s complex flavours without any trace of gaminess. Have your beef with a side of grilled sweet corn, trust us.
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Chambers Bar & Grill
  • Restaurants
  • Grills
  • KL Sentral

Chambers Bar & Grill is a meat-heavy restaurant where beef is aged in a special Himalayan salt tile dry aging cabinet and cooked on skewers robatayaki style. Meat here is dry-aged for weeks before chucked onto the grill and served with various salts and sides.

Kampachi
  • Restaurants
  • Japanese
  • Bukit Bintang
There really aren’t that many great (although plenty of decent/good) Japanese restaurants in KL, however, in the semi-recently opened ‘Kampachi’ in Pavilion KL can honestly claim to rival the likes of ‘Zipangu’ and ‘Iketeru.’ The restaurant shares a name, brand, menu and owners with the outlet in the Equatorial KL, however, to my taste buds, the one in Pavilion is superior. The staff are just as friendly but the food seems fresher — although I can’t see how that could be. Possibly the newness of the outlet played tricks on my mind. We began with California rolls, which – hand on heart — are the best in KL. The filling of soft crabstick, carrot, cucumber, and roe were immaculately presented and once soy sauce was drizzled over the roll it was as fresh and flavoursome as you could ask for. Moving on, and the soba and udon noodles were the undoubted highlight of the main course. They hand make them in the window of the restaurant allowing diners nearby and passing shoppers to see in as the dough-artists create their noodly work in their little heated room. Art is without question a fair analogy for their creations once you allow them to pass your lips. The noodles really are excellent. And the soup they come in is rich and tasty, although could have been hotter. The rest of the meal was good without being great, the salad fresh if plain, as was the fruit. Having tried some more traditional Japanese fare, I took a gamble with the curry cutlet meal. It was much better than it’s eq
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The Steakhouse
  • Restaurants
  • Bukit Bintang

The latest establishment by Werner Kuhn, The Steakhouse is a 40-seater steak joint along Changkat Bukit Bintang and adjacent to The Whisky Bar. The beef is imported from Australia and you can choose between the aged Black Angus and grain fed. Thereon, choose from five cuts – medallion, tenderloin, rib-eye, T-bone and striploin after which you choose your sauce (béarnaise, black pepper, red wine etc), style of potatoes (fried, mashed, sautéed) and vegetables (grilled asparagus, sweet corn, sautéed spinach etc). All cuts are grilled over charcoal, a style popularised by the Argentinians.

Mandarin Grill
  • Restaurants
  • KL City Centre

Situated at the site of the old Pacifica, the Mandarin Grill has lifted steak dining in the city to a whole new level. The MO has always provided the culinary excellence in its outlets but Mandarin Grill is genuinely something new and different. The calibre and exemplary preparation of the meat merits its ranking as one of the city’s very best restaurants.

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PRIME
  • Restaurants
  • KL Sentral

July 2008 The first thing that grabs you about Prime is its elegant modern décor, oversized tables and its wide open kitchen with an uninterrupted view of chefs hard at work. Attention to detail is a key element at ‘Prime’ evident by the house made bread and butter selection served to you the moment you plonk yourself down. Beef is a serious subject matter here with a selection of steaks from Australia, Japan, Argentina and US and what impressed me the most was the fact that you can order your steak based on cut, weight and number of days it’s been aged. For non-bovine eaters there’s also an extensive selection of appetizers, soups and salads with poultry and seafood dishes. Opting for a mix of traditional steak restaurant fare, my partner and I ordered the apple wood smoked Norwegian salmon (RM45) and the truffle ravioli, mushroom fricassee (RM50). Of the two, the salmon dish stood out with the freshly smoked slices infused just right. The ravioli was a decent enough with pasta parcels packed with truffles and served with a creamy sauce. And then came the steaks. Feeling slightly stuffed it was a wise move to order the 8oz selection of ribeye (RM95) and centre cut filet mignon (RM165). Both steaks were 200-day grain fed Black Angus and came with caramelised balsamic-shallot jus and cracked peppercorn sauces. The ribeye, which under the strict advice of the maître d’ was served medium rare was tender and grilled almost to perfection. The filet mignon was tender and full of f

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