Canary Wharf, Fitzrovia, Soho and South Kensington all have one – so it’s about time the lawyers of Ludgate got a branch of the leading international chain of ‘mozzarella bars’. First opening in Rome as Obicà more than a decade ago, the restaurants have spread as far as LA and Japan, serving buffalo mozzarella (imported from Campania) and other Italian staples from an open kitchen in a slick, modern room. But it’s tough to square expansion with authenticity and quality, and that balance in this new St Paul’s branch is a little off.
No complaints about the cheese: a bursting burrata and a lovely smoked mozzarella, paired with nutty caponata and some excellent salumi. The ostentatiously palm-stretched pizza dough deserves a big hand.