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Obicà Mozzarella Bar St Paul's

  • Restaurants
  • St Paul’s
  • price 1 of 4
  • 3 out of 5 stars

Time Out says

3 out of 5 stars

The fifth London location for Silvio Ursini’s ‘mozzarella bar’ chain.

Canary Wharf, Fitzrovia, Soho and South Kensington all have one – so it’s about time the lawyers of Ludgate got a branch of the leading international chain of ‘mozzarella bars’. First opening in Rome as Obicà more than a decade ago, the restaurants have spread as far as LA and Japan, serving buffalo mozzarella (imported from Campania) and other Italian staples from an open kitchen in a slick, modern room. But it’s tough to square expansion with authenticity and quality, and that balance in this new St Paul’s branch is a little off.

No complaints about the cheese: a bursting burrata and a lovely smoked mozzarella, paired with nutty caponata and some excellent salumi. The ostentatiously palm-stretched pizza dough deserves a big hand.

James Manning
Written by
James Manning


Unit 4 5-7 Limburner Lane
Tube: St Paul's
£25 and under
Opening hours:
Monday to Friday from 11.30am to 10.30pm Saturday and Sunday Closed APERITIF: Every day from 5 pm to 7 pm.
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