At most sushi counters, you’re separated from the action by glass, so except for the cry of ‘irasshaimase!’ (welcome) as you walk in, there’s not much live theatre. But sit at the counter of this innovative (if pricey) Kensington restaurant, and you’ll not only find nothing between you and the fun-loving chefs, but they’ll actually go out of their way to entertain. ‘You want more blow-torch?’ Yes. Of course we want more blow-torch.
Remember when ‘being given the counter’ was akin to being given the finger? Well, those days are over. In fact, they’ve been over for ages now, because there are now so many London restaurants where the seat at the counter is in fact the best seat in the house that it’s time for a shout out to the very best. Here’s our countdown of the top ten counters in town. You’re welcome.