The Victory has a rousing origin story. Much-loved local restaurant Franklins was a jewel in East Dulwich’s not insignificant dining crown, but closed earlier this year after 26 years in business. Aghast, the locals rallied, including restaurateur Jamie Younger of the nearby and equally beloved Begging Bowl. Within weeks, the place was his. A new name was easy. Before Franklins was Franklins it was a pub called The Victory, and the name, previously hidden by a Franklins hoarding, remained carved in sturdy tile at the top of the building. Suddenly there was a new southeast London gastropub that seemed like it’d been there forever, because in a way, it had.
Grilled langoustines bring some Cajun energy to the table
This year has seen a wave of gastropubs doing things a little differently. From The Golden Tooth to The Latimer, these aren’t just traditional restaurants bulldozing their way into a pub space, but proper boozers with proper food, with plenty of room for anyone who just wants five pints for dinner and nothing more. The Victory fits the fresh mould with steely relish and relaxed aplomb. This is by no means Younger’s first rodeo, and he’s got former Noble Rotter Seán Breen in to exec chef the menu, which is a little bit French and a whole lot perfect for the heatwave during which we eat a not insignificant proportion of it.
In the elegant but not overblown back room, classic cocktails (make ours an aviation, captain) are sipped in dainty Nick & Nora glasses as we snack on perfect melba-toast like soldiers topped with chopped egg mayonnaise and silky Cantabrian anchovies. A two-bite smash hit. There’s a smoked eel gilda, because of course there is, but it’s juicy Honeymoon melon and chopped runner beans with basil, ricotta and the occasional almond which has us in giddy raptures. A more harmonious and sweat-proof salad we cannot imagine. Grilled langoustines, burnished with tomato butter bring some Cajun energy to the table, and are presented classily and simply but come roaring with flavour.
The main event is a whole roast poulet jaune (that’s a yellow, corn-fed chicken to you and I), served in two parts. Like The Godfather and its sequel, both are good, but the follow-up might be even better. We start with breast, which comes in a Le Creuset swimming with a creamy marsala sauce dotted with just the right amount of tarragon (you must order the chips and dunk them in said sauce). Then it’s time to flash some leg, which comes with the crispiest of skins. It’s a one-two punch that knocks us out, only to be revived by a martini pudding.
Welcome back to the neighborhood, The Victory. This one’s a keeper.
The vibe A neighborhood gastropub that wears its excellence lightly.
The food French-ish dishes with lots of fresh, seasonal options.
The drink A martini menu, classic cocktails and wine for all tastes. It’s a pub, so there’s beer too.
Time Out tip The egg mayo soldiers are a non-negotiable order.