Queensmith, an all-day grazing situation inspired by Euro cafés and wine bars, is a new venue with an old soul. Owner Gerard Kelly took the bones of City Square’s Three Below, Caboose Canteen and La Vida Buona, which were razed to make way for the Metro Tunnel, to his Queen Street site.
It’s more than just up-cycling. Kelly’s original venues were designed by Six Degrees, the award-winning architecture firm that cut their teeth on some of Melbourne’s coolest early-noughties restaurants. “I was holding onto certain pieces because I wanted to use them again someday,” Kelly says. “And I didn’t want to create a space that looked brand new, I wanted it to feel lived in.”
Achievement unlocked. The 40-seater is all eucalyptus-green panelling accented by leadlight-backed shelves. A cosy back corner has been outfitted with tan-leather banquettes and low Bentwood stools. Out front, taking up a semi-permanent parklet space, are vintage Sebel chairs and marble-topped tables with a Parisian feel. Only the central bar is new, the deco-styled piece comes from Julian Beattie, who built the bars at Joe’s Shoe Store and Little Andorra. “He’s got a real knack for creating a ‘look’,” Kelly says.
Given that it’s still early days (and most of the time, it’s just Kelly on staff) the menu is mostly bread-based. From 6am it’s espresso, pastries and toasties, as the day rolls on, out come the pork and pistachio terrine, beetroot cured salmon and fancy tinned anchovies with Savoy crackers. Depending on how the current situation pans out, Kelly has plans for “less sangas, more plated dishes” and a dedicated chef to prepare them.
Drop by between 3 and 7pm for aperitivo hour(s). It’s $6 house beer and wine, $10 Spritz and $15 Negronis.
