Why fight the moonlight when it’s shining a light on so much interesting wine?
The Moon feels more like the VIP room of a nightclub or a sleek cocktail lounge than a wine bar. The beautiful people of Collingwood gather to chat in the moody recesses of the black-painted space, lit by a giant, glowing picture of the eponymous heavenly orb, and the soundtrack is the kind of chilled electro you might hear at a festival recovery set.
Along one long wall, beautifully labelled take-away bottles are lit like art in a gallery. The list of wines by the glass is a good balance of approachable and more out-there natural stuff, with a slant towards Alsatian styles. To drink here, either a bit of knowledge or a sense of adventure are key.
You’re unlikely to find a Kiwi Sav Blanc or a Barossa shiraz, and they won’t hold your hand unless you ask, so dive in and be impressed. A Binner Pirouettes “Julien” blend of auxerrois, sylvaner and muscat is unlike anything else we’ve tried, with a nose of sautéed celery and fresh apples. A timorasso from Italy is full-bodied with floral oak and lovely spiced honey.
The snacks are worth exploring, too. A plate of pickled egg seems impossibly cheap at $4. Sure, it's just an egg, but presented beautifully with pickled beetroot and rhubarb on a bed of mustardy mayo with slices of bread, it's a serious snack for the cost of a packet of crisps. Not since Bar Liberty opened has a wine bar felt youthful and vibrant in this way. And while our old-school Euro wine bars still provide Melbourne with a bounty of earthly delights, sometimes it’s nice to know you can have The Moon, too.
|Venue name:||The Moon|
|Opening hours:||Mon-Wed noon-10pm; Thu-Sat noon-11pm; Sun noon-10pm|