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“Over the pandemic, we saw an absolute explosion of product that had never been commonplace in people’s skincare routines before. We were all at home looking in the mirror more than ever – it was a marketer’s wet dream.”
When Melbourne dermatology specialist, Dr Ryan De Cruz, explains it like that, I feel totally exposed. Over the last two years, I developed a complex about my skin texture, fine lines and a deep fear of going outside without SPF 50 slathered all over my face. Combine this with a complete rewatching of all the seasons of the Real Housewives of Beverly Hills and suddenly I’d bumped up a couple of levels in my Mecca Beauty Loop status.
Social media was full of quasi-skincare experts with flawless complexions dishing out unsolicited advice about chemical exfoliants and harsh skincare tools. And after totally destroying my skin barrier for the third time, I started to wonder if this had all gone a little bit too far.
“As a clinician, I saw all these patients coming in feeling really despondent, having dropped hundreds of hundreds (or thousands) of dollars, and just feeling upset and depressed,” says Dr De Cruz. “The internet is an amazing resource, but there’s a lot of false, misleading, and biased information out there. That means that patients can go months, if not years, trying to sort out problems by themselves – and bearing the burden of it both emotionally as well as financially before they actually seek help.”
I asked Dr De Cruz to clear up some common dermatology misconceptions and explain what skincare minimalism is – and why we should all be adopting it:
What’s the biggest mistake people make when looking after their skin?
“Trying to find solutions to their problems online. The problem is, the internet is full of a lot of great information, but it's not personalised. People neglect to go to a dermatologist for their skin concerns because they think 'it’s going to cost me so much money, why would I do that when I can buy something cheaper online?' But actually, the cost of using the wrong products is much higher in the long run.
Patients come to me and are relieved to know ‘Okay, this is what I need to do. I don’t need to spend hundreds of dollars on different things, I just need a prescription or some simple skincare.’”
How can people seek information and advice about skincare products?
“Not everyone will need to see a dermatologist for their skin concerns. Skincare, plastic surgery and dermatology clinics have dermal therapists who can steer you in the direction of good products. They can also assess your skin concerns and refer you up the ladder if necessary. Accurate diagnosis leads to accurate management.”
What is the single best thing someone can do to look after their skin?
“Understanding your skin type is the most important starting point. Because if you have skin that is dry, then using products that are going to exfoliate your skin or using retinol, for example, may actually just aggravate irritate it further. Once you have an understanding of what your skin is and what it needs, you can then apply appropriate skincare.”
What are some skincare trends people should avoid?
“I think the use of a whole lot of crazy rituals – like facial skincare that requires a lot of food products. You see people mixing up their own face masks with acidic ingredients (or worse, basic ingredients) that can cause a lot of serious problems. It's that sort of misinformation of telling people ‘you don't need to buy this, you can do it at home for yourself' that can cause sensitisation or even allergies.”
What’s your favourite skincare trend?
"Recently, there’s been a real trend of people going back to basics in what has been coined ‘skin minimalism’. [After 2020 and 2021] we are seeing a swing back in the right direction – now it’s like, we know that you're interested in skincare, but let's actually use products that have got some scientific evidence to back up their claims and that don’t cost you hundreds of dollars."
What are three steps or products that everyone can incorporate into their routine?
"A gentle pH-balanced cleanser is always a great idea. We do have pollution in the air in Melbourne – a lot of dust and pollen – which can aggravate the skin, so thorough cleansing followed by a basic moisturiser. And sunscreen. That's actually all you need."
What are some good quality, affordable products that you would recommend?
In terms of Australian brands, CeraVe is definitely the leader in this field. Dermal Therapy is another one that has emerged with a great range of basic products, from lip balms to moisturisers and cleansers, and they’re available at most supermarkets and chemists. The standout feature [of these brands] is that their products contain ceramides, with have an incredible amount of research behind them.
Dr Ryan De Cruz is a specialist dermatologist at his clinic Southern Dermatology in Murrumbeena. You can follow him at @drryandecruz or @southerndermatology_melb.
