They’ve just added an upstairs bar to cope with the overflow – a what-took-you-so-long move that, after ten years, is testament to Bar Lourinha’s enduring popularity. But this place at the Paris end of Little Collins just keeps on keeping on. Since it first opened in a blaze of then-novel Iberian glory it’s been best in show, not only on the drinks side but with co-owner Matt McConnell’s brand of Spanish and Portuguese tapas-style food.
The trademark kingfish ‘pancetta’ with lemon oil and red onion remains as compelling as it was way back when, and the rest of the menu is pretty failsafe, too: half a baby cos lettuce covered in a blizzard of manchego with a salty umami hit of bottarga butter, or perfect charry outside/pink inside finger-scorching lamb chops; or sardines wrapped in a fine, fried layer of brik pastry with preserved lemon aioli. Gracias, Bar Lourinha.