Burnham Bakery and Piggery Café

Restaurants Sassafras
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The new bakery-café-resort for the upper class is the most exciting thing to happen to the Dandenongs since Tecoma's war on McDonald's

Has Shannon Bennett finally outdone his greatest rival, Shannon Bennett? The Vue De Monde chef-restaurateur has so many pots on the boil that seems to be his life's aim. And this time, he may really have done it, opening a veritable theme park for food fans in the Dandenongs. The site is Burnham Beeches: 22 hectares of heritage-listed beauty, built by the Nicholas family in the 1930s.

By 2018, you’ll be able to stay in the stunning cream mansion, rent a dog to take truffling and get a discount on your lodgings by rooting up the veggie patch. Croquet and brewery tours are also part of the utopian plan, but for now, you’ll have to content yourself with buying bread and brunching in the Piggery – the commercial bakery and café.

Things are pretty tense here from 11-2pm on the weekend. The SUVs are out in force and everyone is violently determined to relax. Toorak mums are practically punching on over baker Tim Beylie’s croissants. The Frenchman knows his way around a flour bin, and even moonlights as disco-spinning DJ Baguette. His team is doing the pre-pre-dawn shifts to fill the counter and baskets with giant golden scrolls, sourdough batons, and chocolate tarts that are essentially pure bitter ganache in a super short pastry crust.

Get them to go if it's busy. Or stay for the Croque Madame filled with swiss cheese, and a smoky mush of pulled ham hock, topped with a sunny-yolked egg. Or feather-light brioche sandwiching spicy, smoky lamb Merguez sausages squiggled with dijon mustard and lifted with the crunch and bite of pickled and deep-fried eschalots.

If glutardiness precludes bun fun, go for the charcoal chicken – a family feast for $28. A half bird is barbecued on the charcoal grill out front and laid out in big juicy sections with a stack of golden chicken nuggets and tartare sauce, with a side platter of salads. On our visit, it’s dressed wild greens, whole globe artichokes rolled in a caper-parsley dressing and a finely blitzed cauliflower salad packed with cumin seeds and chick peas. You could make a meal of the salads alone.

Or out of cakes. Afternoon tea here is festival of varying hot snacks from the kitchen chased by fruit scones, soft-centred pistachio cakes, rich orange and almond frangipane tarts and Lamingtons from a huge spread, laid out daily after lunch. It's $40 with a glass of Pol Roger Champagne if you're not driving. Although barista Trent Heffer (ex-Silo) is here, giving plenty of lift-off power to Five Senses beans.

You almost want to hate the place, so picture perfect are the rustic concrete walls, vine-covered silo turrets and waitstaff in denim and plaid. And then there’s the composting dehydrator, bio diesel bread vans and a whole mob of rescue emus. We do hate the family in matching vests taking a selfie out front. But huffy Toorak mums and rampant Instagrammers aside, Burnham Beeches is a short trip with a big payoff if you value a good crust and Downton Abbey luxury with a bonus eco-bent.

By: Gemima Cody


Venue name: Burnham Bakery and Piggery Café
Address: 1 Sherbrooke Rd
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; Sat-Sun 9am-5pm

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Sonia M
1 of 1 found helpful

Arrived at 9.30am hungry and ready for breakfast. We waited to get a seat for 10 minutes (no line, just no staff to be seen). We were then sent (not taken) to a self-service area with dodgy sloped wooden seats (uncomfortable) and given some paper menus. The table was full of dirty plates and glasses (which were not cleared for another hour). We had to line up again to order, which meant standing in a long queue inside for more than half an hour. My order was taken at 10.39am (!) by the single girl operating the till. We then waited...  and waited... We counted two staff on floor area for about 90+ people.... Eventually, my cappuccino which was in a tiny cup and was cold (!) came out ... it was only then that we also could ask for some table water. We then waited for food, which came out at 11.10am! The cashew and almond pancakes with banana and seasonal fruit (which cost $14) were TERRIBLE. I could have bought a banana for 80c at the supermarket and been more satisfied. The quarter poached pear was all there was to the 'seasonal fruit'. When I asked the waitress she said that it didn't seem right, but went into the chef and came back and said she was told 'that's what's in season'....The pancakes were dry and made with nut meal rather than any cashews/almonds in sight... Please see the picture - it looks like something my kids could have whipped up in about 10 minutes... In total, I spent $50 for 2x the pancakes, a cold cappuccino, and milk and two boiled eggs with a slice of sourdough bread (eggs and soldiers) for the kids... We waited more than an hour and a half in total from arriving at the restaurant to getting to eat, and left still hungry and feeling extremely dissatisfied. It looks like this place is making a lot of money for not a lot of service or quality! (Even charging 1.6% fee for using a credit card or pay wave!).

Helen M

Nice surroundings, lots for children to look at, and good food. However, service is incredibly slow! Staff are friendly, but there is not enough of them, or they are poorly managed. It took in excess of 30m for coffee to arrive, not once but twice! We grabbed our own menus after being seated. Flagged staff to order rather than them attending to us in any sort of timely fashion. And it took 15m to line up and pay upon departure! But since there are lines of customers waiting to be seated there is no real incentive for change... This was the second time I have eaten here, having experienced similar issues the first time. I was hoping it was a bad/unexpectedly busy day the first time, but today suggests perhaps it is just the standard.