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In all the years exploring Melbourne's ins and outs, I'd never found myself in Moonee Ponds. I half thought it was a made up place; a foil for Dame Edna's jokes, like Kath and Kim's Fountain Lakes. Then I heard about Garden Tuscany, a beautiful courtyard cafe run by two Italian immigrants and features a wood-fired pizza oven. It's a sheer slice of Tuscan magic out back, and on a cold winter's arvo, their lovingly crafted hot chocolate is melted from great blocks of the real deal.