Henry and the Fox

Restaurants Melbourne
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 (Photograph: Graham Denholm)
Photograph: Graham Denholm
 (Photograph: Graham Denholm)
Photograph: Graham Denholm
 (Photograph: Graham Denholm)
Photograph: Graham Denholm
 (Photograph: Graham Denholm)
Photograph: Graham Denholm
 (Photograph: Graham Denholm)
Photograph: Graham Denholm
 (Photograph: Graham Denholm)
Photograph: Graham Denholm

At mod-European bistro Henry and the Fox it’s all about lunch. The CBD space is bright and breezy, with cute foxy stockinged chairs and an Astroturf terrace primed for illicit midday drinking. They do dinner too, but Little Collins only parties from 9-5 and past sundown, it feels like you’re eating in a restaurant post-apocalypse.

But back to sunnier times, the ale is Hawthorn, the wine list visits France and Spain and lunch represents a significant upgrade from a 7-11 sanga. Croquettes are deep fried missiles concealing an explosive lava of ham flecked molten cheese, and a pretty plate of raw kingfish ‘ceviche’, (our Mexican pals insist on the air quote distinction) is jazzed up with ruby grapefruit and shaved fennel. It’s a win for spice wusses –no kick to the pants of acid lime and chilli here.

The kitchen suffers from a touch of fancy-ingredient-syndrome. Squid ink tagliatelle is the trophy wife of the chilli, clam and garlic vongole – all looks and no character, and an almost marzipan-flavoured shellfish mayo sinks a dish of roasted prawns without a trace. Having said that, the whole flash-fried quail’s eggs are all golden crunch and mellow yolky pop.

Bypass anything truffle infused for the traditional gear like a meaty rabbit terrine studded with capers, and you’re sitting pretty.

This venue welcomes Side with Amex


By: Gemima Cody


Venue name: Henry and the Fox
Address: 525 Little Collins St
Opening hours: Daily 8am-late
Transport: Nearby stations: Flinders Street; Southern Cross
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