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The nautical decor – photos of salty sea dogs on the walls and Popeye and Olive Oil on the bathroom doors – is an appropriately whimsical backdrop for a fine fish and chip experience in landlocked Fitzroy. The traditional British Fish & Chips gets top marks: a flaky slab of blue grenadier encased in golden tempura batter arches over a bundle of chunky chips. It wouldn’t be complete without a scoop of minted mushy peas, perfectly textured and the colour of Robin Hood’s tights. The chips – hand cut, no less – have more in common with a roasted potato than a French fry, and are the perfect vehicle for tartare. A grilled flake meal deal, with brown rice and a Vietnamese slaw that’s punchy with red chillies, is equally satisfying and an easy way to get a fish supper past your new year resolutions to eat better.
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