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When you think of restaurants that have helped shape Victoria’s culinary landscape, Lake House is almost certain to come to mind. The brainchild of the late Allan Wolf-Tasker (an artist and builder) and his wife Alla (a chef), the fine diner officially opened in 1984 on the banks of Lake Daylesford. At the time, it was practically unheard of to travel for a dining experience; the term ‘sustainability’ hadn’t yet entered the foodie lexicon; and spotlighting regional produce was a foreign concept.
And yet, Allan and Alla persevered, slowly working to transform Lake House into a destination where quality food, service and innovation marry to create the most memorable of meals. Now, more than 40 years on and countless awards and accolades later, it’s time for me to find out what all the fuss is about.
I’m dining on a balmy Friday night, which means welcome drinks on the lagoon deck are a must. I highly recommend arriving early to enjoy a cheeky glass of bubbles before settling in for your reservation. Alla remains the culinary director of Lake House, working with chefs Brendan Walsh and Annabelle Greig to create the seasonal, multi-course menu.
The dining room is a cosy hive of pleasant chatter, plates clinking and divine smells wafting through the air. A plate of oysters kicks off proceedings, accompanied by fresh sourdough baked down the road at sister venue Dairy Flat Lodge and Farm. Much of the menu’s bounty – like the fresh fruit and veg – is harvested directly from the farm, with tomatoes, eggplant, zucchini, potatoes, berries, beetroot and rhubarb playing a starring role.
I work my way through dishes like swordfish in a tomato dashi; potato agnolini with mushrooms, green asparagus and tarragon; and a dry-aged duck with heirloom carrots, charred citrus and bigarade sauce. Each bite is delicious – perfectly balanced and singing with flavour. It’s one of those meals that makes you exclaim “wow!” on a regular basis.
Dinner ends on the sweetest note, with a medley of berries, lime meringue and pistachio sorbet. It’s light, refreshing and slightly zesty – a lovely palate cleanser after some of the richer savoury dishes. The service is also impeccable, and it’s obvious the entire team is well-versed in the art of good hospitality. As far as special dining experiences go, this one rockets immediately up my list.
But Lake House doesn’t just offer one of regional Victoria’s most spectacular fine dining experiences. The lush and leafy property is home to more than 30 luxurious rooms, suites and villas that provide a cosy sanctuary to retreat to when you’ve finished your meal.
I stayed in the Atrium Villa, which feels like your very own private hideaway. There’s an exclusive entrance and car park for direct access, and panoramic views that extend out to Lake Daylesford. The interiors are a gloriously quirky mish-mash of jewel tones, plush textures, antique furniture and artwork from the Wolf-Taskers’ personal collection – it’s instantly charming and welcoming, like you’ve suddenly inherited a distant relative’s cool country lodge.
All the modern luxury amenities are included, too. Like a huge flat-screen TV, Bose sound system, free Wi-Fi, Nespresso coffee machine and a Vintec wine fridge stocked with local drops. The bedroom opens up onto a vine-covered courtyard with a fire pit, and there’s a freestanding bath perfect for a relaxing soak.
I’m visiting during a particularly warm autumn weekend, and the infinity pool proves a lovely spot to while away a sunny afternoon. There are plenty of umbrellas and lounges, and you can order drinks and snacks straight to the pool deck. You can also have a hit on the tennis court or book in for a pamper sesh at the on-site spa – the treatment menu features massages, facials and hydrotherapy.
It doesn’t matter whether you’re a return visitor or a lucky first-timer – Lake House remains an enduring example of innovative dining, warm hospitality and family legacy. Here’s to 40 more years of celebrating this Daylesford gem.
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