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What could be better than lemongrass-rubbed beef ($10) atop a hillock of rice noodles, crowned with a snowcap of roasted peanuts? Why, that same warm salad with a Fluffy Duck on the side! New Wind do Vietnamese, Thai and a so-bad-they’re good range of retro cocktails like Fruit Tingles and Orgasms, all winningly served in obscure glassware (your martini comes in a cup with a straw) and costing less that eight bucks.