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The grand old dame of Melbourne's restaurant scene offers comfort food at comfort prices (unless you're gluten intolerant, then you shall seek little comfort here). There's something special about sitting at a 65-year-old bench on a 65-year-old stool and looking at a 65-year-old menu while you shovel into a sliding colossus of lasagne ($16). We recommend it highly. A white shirt, not so much.