Kanh Nguyen’s departure from Sunda last July left many, myself included, wondering what would become of the once-lauded contemporary Southeast Asian-Australian restaurant. But former sous Nabil Ansari’s appointment as the new head chef (after a brief stint at Firebird) has ensured the venue remains in good hands. Sunda is not the same restaurant that opened on Punch Lane in 2018, but its next wave is a promising one.
With formal service and a slight industrial edge, the venue embodies a high-low approach to upscale dining that emerged in the late 2010s and has permeated the industry ever since. Think doors held open and menus placed on laps by staff whose welcoming air and sense of character feel more important than their uniform.
The food is similarly refined yet relaxed. Attention to detail is evident, though no dish feels too stuffy or serious. The pie tee has initial notes of creamed corn that give way to the sharp zing of salted black bean hiding beneath the surface, all encased in a delicate pastry shell. The tuna tartare donut, which tastes of deep-fried potato, is well-balanced with a generous dressing of sturgeon caviar, but perhaps could be elevated to even greater heights with a hint of acid or cream. In any case, it’s a delight.
On that note, it's the smaller dishes that look more appealing on paper, and so we round out the meal with those. Crispy tempeh is an outstanding choice at only $12 with a sweet, smoky glaze and the bright crunch of lightly pickled cucumbers. Chargrilled calamari served on a bed of well-cooked sticky rice with sambal and pickled daikon is a robust marriage of flavours and textures. The button mushroom-shaped taro dumplings are chewy, glutinous bites served in an inky black garlic sauce. They have a slight graininess, but any taro fan knows this comes with the territory – even making each bite more addictive. According to the waitress, it’s a new item they’re testing and is a playful example of the restaurant’s range.
Cocktails are thoughtful, though slightly less experimental than the food, with classics plus a few house drinks – the Thai red tea, gin, brandy and citrus punch is well-executed and naturally enjoyable. To take pairings to the next level, you’d probably have more room to play with the extensive wine list.
There’s nothing to fault here aside, perhaps, from the cost. Dining at Sunda is not a low-cost night out, but as dining grows more expensive, it pays to invest in the experiences you know will deliver and Sunda delivers. Six years in, it could easily rest on its laurels but – whether driven by integrity or a shift in leadership – the restaurant is as exceptional as ever.
Time Out Melbourne never writes starred reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills for reviews so that readers can trust our critique.