Kokoras
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Chef Alex Xinis made waves when he opened Tzaki, introducing Melbourne to a side of Greek cooking not well represented here. His spin-off Kokoras takes a more familiar format, drawing on the charcoal chicken shops found in every suburb, but with a Hellenic twist.
The vibe
Historically, charcoal chicken isn’t a dine-in situation – rather, a quick and nutritious mid-week meal for time-poor parents or workers on a lunch break. Though there are a few indoor stools and several more on the footpath, Kokoras stays true to its roots as a takeaway-centric spot.
But it’s not the old-school chicken shop you’re used to. Bright yellow branding and graphic design details carry through the space, framing a glass cabinet filled with fresh salads and sides. The visually driven menu makes it easier to sort through the options, with dine-in dishes served on silver platters.
The food
The classic chicken shop combo – quarter or half chicken, plus sides – is the signature here. Choose from the OG ($21), pairing roast chook with iceberg salad, lemon potatoes and taramasalata, or the KK platter ($21), which subs in a grain salad, pickles, tzatziki and that moreish, fluffy flatbread Tzaki is known for. It’s served with wooden cutlery – a slight misstep for a dish this good, and not