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Tan Thanh Loi has a menu as long as an encyclopedia but regulars know to skip the hu tieu, duck noodle soup and stir-fried dishes in favour of the easy-to-eat but hard-to-master com tam (broken rice). Here, lemongrass marinated pork chops and chicken marylands are grilled and sliced before crowning a mound of broken rice accompanied by pickles, shredded pork skin, meatloaf and fresh slices of cucumber and tomato, served alongside a piquant bowl of nouc mam cham which ties together every element of this generous plate of rice.