Tao Tao House

They give good yum cha at this little Malvern joint. It’s the little things: plush seats, attentive tea-filling and dumplings caught in perfectly translucent skins that hold and yield at the exact moments they should. Chef Jason Au has beaten the Flower Drum so his chilli chicken wontons are mouth-numbing mouthfuls of clean shirt ruination and flat rice noodles, usually a flabby snooze, come wrapped around a juicy pack of prawns and bok choy. They’re also slinging flaky pastry custard tarts fresh from the oven. It’s a small joint, and the selection is limited but that equals high turnover and attention to detail. Book ahead.