Right now, England’s best restaurant – and one that has been awarded the highly coveted three Michelin stars – L’Enclume, has taken over Mosman’s idyllic Bathers’ Pavilion for a five-week residency that’s been four years in the making. Not only did head chef and pioneer of the farm-to-table movement Simon Rogan pack up ship and sail across the sea, he brought with him a fleet of eight chefs and senior waitstaff to recreate and reimagine L’Enclume Down Under. Talk about commitment.
We were lucky enough to experience the eight-course menu, which also comes with snacks and petit fours. At $420 a pop (not including drinks), cheap it ain’t. Though, if you’ve got the cash to spend, and love dining out, here’s why we reckon it could be worth it.
- It was a joyous experience
We know what you’re thinking: of course it was. But hear us out. Sometimes dining at fancy restaurants can make you feel more uptight than a chef during a health and safety inspection. And while the service at L’Enclume was incredibly polished and professional (as you would expect dining at a three Michelin-starred spot would be), it also felt relaxed, and the experience was fun.
Yes, waiters plated dishes together with one graceful swoop, did not skip a beat when talking about each plate at length, and sommelier Valentin Mouillard’s wine expertise was truly commendable (as was his moustache). But, they also cracked jokes, and told us how they went for swims each morning (in the middle of winter – Brits, hey?). And, we were allowed to make a mess when using our hands for the snack courses. A personal highlight.
- Australia has some of the best produce in the world
Rogan wanted to give L’Enclume an Australian feel, and that he did, showcasing our country’s stellar produce, from Fraser Island spanner crab to Tasmanian ocean trout. In fact, the only thing the team brought over from Britain was wild garlic oil (which they hilariously had to smuggle through customs). Rogan spent time going out and meeting with farmers and suppliers to understand where his produce was coming from. This was best shown in a dish of leopard rockcod and courgette, fennel pollen, marron and rose hips, where he sourced the succulent, “just-touched” white-flesh fish from the Sydney Fish Market.
- Each dish was considered, balanced, and looked like art
Even though we eat and drink for a living, we don’t have Michelin stars here in Australia, so this was our first time trying food of that calibre. So, what does Michelin-starred food look and taste like? Essentially, dishes that have had a heck of a lot of time, thought and consideration put into them, and are executed by a highly skilled chef. And they look like they would fit in at the new Sydney Modern.
Take, for example, a tiny snack of boltardy beetroot and pickled radish tartlet with trout eggs marinated in ponzu. It was sweet, salty and creamy, with pops of vibrant roe exploding in our mouth. The tart case, which took approximately three seconds to be demolished, took six days for the team to make.
Another course with seaweed custard, beef broth and bone marrow with Tasmanian royal miyagi oysters and oscietra caviar was incredibly balanced, full of umami flavours, deeply comforting, and delicious. Which takes us to our next point…
- Great food makes you feel something and is delicious at the same time – L’Enclume achieved this in spades
At the end of the day, all the micro herbs and edible flowers can’t jazz up a lacklustre plate of food. This was not definitely that. And while we truly did enjoy all courses, some will stay with us for long after the chefs wipe down after their final service.
We loved the aforementioned game-changing seaweed custard. And the Yarrawa (a type of cheese) pudding caramelised in maple syrup, stout vinegar, and aged Yarrawa. The team told us it was like cheese on toast combined with bread and butter pudding. Covered in snow-like cheese, the snack was indulgent, rich, sweet, salty and yum, all at the same time.
L’Enclume’s signature ‘Anvil’ dessert, with caramel mousse miso and apples, was enjoyable, though we had eyes for another: a dessert of strawberries, bee pollen, chamomile cake and milk ice cream. It came out with a strawberry leaf on top, and when we took a bite and closed our eyes, it took us back to our childhood eating strawberries with dollops of cream from our grandmother’s pavlova. A perfect bite and moment.
- It was a harmonious experience
Co-owner of Bathers’ Pavilion Jessica Shirvington said what she loves the most about the L’Enclume residency was the harmony tasted and felt throughout.
“I love how all the dishes speak to each other and complement one another, I think that is what makes it so special.”
And we completely agree. It takes an expert like Rogan, coupled with his all-star team, to craft a menu and curate a complete experience that naturally flows from one course to the next, taking you on a remarkable journey. And one that we were so glad to take.