Pipit, Pottsville

This is not your white-tablecloth kind of fine diner; it’s a casually charming Northern Rivers edition, run by hatted chef and Noma alumnus Ben Devlin, and his wife Yen Trinh. The best seats in the house are at Pipit’s open kitchen counter, where wild foraged plants – most sourced from within 15 minutes’ drive of the restaurant – and sustainably caught seafood are smoked, charred or kissed on the woodfire grill. From the koji sourdough to the delicate linguine and tropical ice cream, everything is made in-house, with any offcuts fermented or converted into dressings, charcuterie, vinegars and even, kombucha. Pipit’s five-course tasting menu is seasonally curated, and with advance notice, they can cater for pretty much any dietary requirement.