Sippenham

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Lasagne has long played a supporting role on menus – as second fiddle to more scene-stealing pasta dishes. But finally, this comfort food is getting top billing in Sydney. There’s Vineria Luisa’s “seven layers of happiness”, the Bat & Ball’s renowned $17 number, A.P Bread & Wine’s kinda lasagne, and people are loving the lasagne bites at Vitelli’s Upstairs. Then there’s the lasagne at Sydenham neighbourhood restaurant Sippenham, which certainly deserves a spot centre stage (more on that shortly).

Sippenham is a pasta and wine bar opened last year by chef Nick Giannopoulos and his high-school best mate Stephen Mandis, who dreamed the idea up when they moved in together during lockdown.

Despite the fact that it’s not that far from buzzy Marrickville, Sippenham is kind of a lone wolf here on Unwins Bridge Rd in Sydenham. The only other eateries nearby are the pub bistro at the General Gordon Hotel, Ho’s Bakery and a kebab shop. I almost walk past Sippenham – the restaurant’s name is scribbled in graffiti on the awning, helping the place camouflage into the gritty streetscape.

The vibe

The vibe, according to their website is “inspired by the vibrant food, music and nightlife scenes of East London, reimagined for Sydenham, Sydney”. What that means in practice: underground UK hip-hop playing over the sound system. An intimate dining room with olive-green walls that are plastered with an eclectic mix of framed pictures: photos of Sydenham, family pics and some of iconic English musos. Pendant lights give off a cosy glow. The bar is lined with empty wine bottles, their sides crusted with layers of melted candle wax. And the service is friendly but casual – paper napkins rather than cloth.

“Neighbourhood restaurant” has become an overused word, but this place epitomises the term – these guys want you to feel like you’re at your mate’s (nice) place.

The food 

OK, so the lasagne! It’s Mandis’s grandma’s recipe and he says, “It’s the best lasagne in town, I’ll die on that hill.” Food writer Howard Chen @howac has high praise for it, saying it’s “one of the best” he’s had in Sydney.

It’s not your typical mince-based number – it’s made with tender strips of slow-cooked beef shin. The layers of fresh pasta and beef are topped with a light bechamel and cheese, then baked and set on a thick base of vodka sauce, which has creamier, more luxurious notes than a standard red sauce. The whole thing is finished with a generous snowfall of shaved Parmesan. The result: indulgent comfort that’s rich and deeply savoury without tipping into heavy territory ($34).

The other standout is the baked spicy radiatori ($30). It's a ruffled pasta, named for its likeness to those old, ridged radiators. Those ruffles do exactly what they’re meant to: trap the sauce. Again, the sauce is vodka-style, but it’s pushed richer and funkier with ’nduja, then finished under a blanket of Parmigiano and baked until bubbling inside and crisp on top.

The sides and snacks are also highlights in their own right. We get the beef croquettes ($26 for two), packed with flavourful beef cheek and surprising pops of pickled mustard seeds. They’re crumbed and fried golden, then finished with shaved Comté.

The roasted chestnut mushrooms ($22) is another favourite of mine – they come roasted in paprika oil for some kick, served with crispy fried sage leaves and a white miso and garlic dipping sauce that packs plenty of umami punch.

All these comfort dishes are offset nicely with a bitter and tangy salad ($18) of witlof with hazelnuts, sliced peschiole (preserved unripe peaches that look a bit like something between a grape and an olive), and a sherry vinaigrette. 

N.B. They update the menu regularly, but no matter what’s on it when you go, I’m sure it’ll rock.

The drinks

It’s a wine bar but we start with gin Martinis ($22)… ’cos Friday night. It’s dirty and it gets the party started. They have some other classic cocktails on the menu: a Negroni, Spicy Marg and some Spritzes. 

We keep the party going with a couple of glasses of bubbles, the Twin Valleys Prosecco ($15 a glass) from Victoria. It’s crisp, bright and lightly spritzy, with a clean, dry finish that makes it a nice balance to the rich comfort food. The wine list heroes Aussie drops – a spread from New South Wales, Victoria and South Australia. Out of 24 selections, only nine are from outside Oz.

Of course, local Sydenham Road brewer Philter brings the beer. And it just so happens that Philter, too, was born out of a backyard chat between mates. So both Sippenham and Philter Brewing are proof that neighbourhoods get better when mates stop saying “we should open a place one day” and actually do it. Cheers to more ideas escaping the group chat.

Time Out tip

Not a Sydenham local? Catch the Metro – Sippenham is a two-minute walk from Sydenham Metro Station. But do make a booking first.

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