Cali Cali

As the name suggests, Tsim Sha Tsui's new Cali Cali bar professes to be Californian - and it does a good job with the drinks and wine menu. But past that there's not much else to support the claim. With cocktails such as the heavy-hitting Adios Motherfucker (vodka, rum, tequila and gin; $88) and the Cadillac Margarita (a regular margarita with a dash of grand Marnier - an old favourite for the Long Beach crowd; $88) on the menu, it's apparent the owners have made a conscious effort to stamp a sense of California love on this place. That extends to the wine list, which takes in some of the state's most popular reds and whites, ranging from an excellent La Crema pinot noir ($880 by bottle only) to a Jordan Cabernet ($1,380 by bottle only). In all, there are 20 reds and 12 whites on offer. The house label, Talus, is available for $58/glass, or $280/bottle. But that's where the identifiable links to California end. This dark space has various seating options, with high-top tables at one end and long, uncomfortable sofas at the other. Odd rectangular light boxes break up the sofa spaces, and stiff drapes cover the windows. Relaxing beachside bar this is not - but that's not to say the decor isn't without its charms: an old wooden staircase leading up to the first-floor bar, for instance, helps lend it a homey feel. Maybe it's trying to be more Long Beach then Manhattan Beach. When we visited it was almost empty but we enjoy the attention of the friendly barman, who displayed a good knowledge of the drinks list, and even imparted the secret to their delicious non-alcoholic smoothies: they're made with ice-cream mix; $38.