Twenties, as the name suggests, is yet another Hong Kong bar inspired by the speakeasies of America’s Prohibition era. Set back from the thumping heart of Wyndham Street, the lack of signage is, presumably, deliberate.
Pulling open the establishment’s heavy black door leads to a well-designed interior. Blue velvet chairs line the venue and white wisteria – fake, but not obviously so – dangles from the ceiling, giving Twenties an uplifting, slightly surreal atmosphere. All well and good, if not very 1920s.
The bar is helmed by Paulo Quejano, a man who has worked under celebrated London cocktail master Salvatore Calabrese, formerly of Maison Eight, so we’ve got high hopes for the tipples. Based, on our bartender’s recommendation, we plump for a margarita and a Dark Negroni, the house speciality. The former is made with Ocho tequila, a touch of vanilla, fresh lime juice and a salted foam topping, as opposed to a salt rim. It’s presented in a pretty pewter mug but the salt is far too intense. Once you get beneath the foam, the drink is decent but the saline taste lingers unmistakably. The negroni fares better. Made with a French gin, dark vermouth and Campari, there’s a satisfying spiciness but it’s sadly unbalanced and way too boozy. Looking for something packing less of a punch, we finish with the less assertive sounding Pink Negroni, featuring G’Vine gin, white vermouth and Japanese sakura liqueur. This delicate tipple is still no lightweight but it’s a pleasant concoction and goes down a lot easier.
As expected of a speakeasy, the drinks are strong and the modern chart music is lively, but whether or not it can hold its own in Wyndham Street’s competitive bar scene remains to be seen. Ellie Bouttell