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Wan Chai does a decent job of keeping its people fed, from old-school dai pai dongs to slick new openings that draw queues on the regular. Into that mix arrives ThongSmith, a Bangkok-based boat noodle specialist with serious cult credentials. This marks the first international outpost for Iberry Group, which has several popular food concepts across Thailand, and if the opening menu is anything to go by, they’ve sure done their homework.
ThongSmith started as a love letter to the traditional boat noodles that originated in the 1950s along Bangkok’s historic canals. Their broth is the star of the show, simmered for eight hours with galangal, star anise, lemongrass, and pickled garlic, then finished with either pork blood for a deep umami punch or a lighter, clear soup option. The noodles are silky, the toppings are generous, and the ingredients are luxurious – think Australian Wagyu ribeye, Kurobuta pork, and premium meatballs. It’s still street food, but elevated.
The Hong Kong menu stays largely faithful to Bangkok. You’ll find the ThongSmith signature boat noodles with Wagyu beef round, braised shank, tendon, and beef balls in their signature spicy broth. Those not into beef can also opt for a Hokkaido pork version, or try the tossed chicken noodles served with a side of clear pork bone broth.
There are also a few exclusives to mark the occasion, including Karn’s fried rice with chicken or shrimp, a peppery dish inspired by co-founder and cuisine director Karn Kittivech’s childhood; a pad thai made in the style of Eastern Thailand; beef tongue green curry rice with whole beef tongue that’s been braised for two hours; and the Chalee’s Chicken ‘Ko Lae’, a Southern Thai-style charred chicken thigh marinated in a coconut and spice mix, served with a cucumber salad that cuts through the smoke.
As with any great meal, you don’t skip desserts. Guests will be able to enjoy nostalgic Thai treats, including Ka-Nom-Tuay pandan coconut pudding, a staple that is often eaten before noodles; sun-dried banana fritters made from a Northern Thai banana variety known for its honey-like sweetness; and Pung Sung-Kaya, a soft steamed bread with a rich pandan or Thai milk tea custard dipping sauce.
ThongSmith is now open at 38 Spring Garden Lane in Wan Chai. If you’ve been waiting for boat noodles that’ll transport you straight to Bangkok without leaving town, this is the one to queue for.
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