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Another one bites the dust among Hong Kong’s ‘soy sauce western’ restaurants. Sai Ying Pun’s Sammy’s Kitchen will soon join a growing list of historic local establishments to close their doors for good in recent years, concluding over half a century of operations in the neighbourhood. Second-generation owner Miss Yip points to interior decay and leaks that motivated the closure for renovation. While Miss Yip alluded to the temporary nature of this shutdown, no further dates have been announced for the restaurant’s reopening following some much needed renovation and maintenance work.
The brainchild of Sammy Yip and two friends, Sammy’s Kitchen initially opened in a humble spot on Hong Kong Island’s westside in 1969, before migrating to its current address along Queen’s Road West. Since day one, the menu has focused on serving classic Hong Kong-style ‘soy sauce western’ cuisine – a hyper-localised interpretation of western dishes that’s unique to our city. The down-to-earth nature of Sammy’s prices, dishes, and atmosphere have made this restaurant a staple in Sai Ying Pun over the years.
Having immigrated from mainland China to Hong Kong, founder Yip has led several professions before entering the hospitality industry with a gig at The Repulse Bay. What followed was a successful career as chef and waiter at the city’s star-studded hotels, including the Hilton, the Mandarin Oriental, and the Peninsula, where Yip steadily honed his culinary skills and curated his connections with Hong Kong’s high society. It was these connections that initially brought Sammy’s Kitchen to fame, where it was touted as a ‘celebrity’s canteen’ during its early days of operation, receiving esteemed diners from the political sphere such as former Hong Kong governors MacLehose and Youde, and even former UK prime minister Margaret Thatcher, as well as local celebrities like Stephen Chow. Needless to say, the news of Sammy’s Kitchen’s closure came as sad news for many residents of Sai Ying Ping and regulars of the historic restaurant.
Sammy’s Kitchen had managed to retain its rustic, post-war decor to this day, adding a touch of history to its cosy atmosphere. In its early years, the restaurant was identifiable by a giant ‘Sammy’s Cow’ neon sign that lit the street below in vibrant hues everyday after sunset. This historic landmark has been part of M+’s preservation programme since its removal from Queen’s Road West in 2015 after being classed as an illegal structure by the government.
The highlight of Sammy’s menu is, of course, its signature steak sets, where each comes with Yip’s version of the French peppercorn sauce, aptly named ‘Sammy’s Sauce’. Crafted with flavourful ingredients like black peppercorn, mushrooms, bacon, and onions, many diners argue that the sauce adds soul to every steak that comes out of Sammy’s Kitchen. We’re also fans of their beef wellington and crêpes suzette.
Miss Yip lamented the uncertainty surrounding Sammy’s Kitchen’s future. Despite surviving through the financial crisis of 1997, SARS, and Covid-19, the restaurant has found it difficult to bounce back since the pandemic. Yet, diners can find hope of a future reopening in Miss Yip’s wish to reunite with regulars. Following Sammy’s Kitchen’s last day on January 31, the number of ‘soy sauce western’ restaurants in Hong Kong dwindles further, with notable names such as Tai Ping Koon, Boston Restaurant, and Golden Phoenix remaining. This is your last chance to relive, or experience anew, Sammy’s signature flavours, so don’t miss it!
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