There’s been a recent spate of chefs from mega-restaurant chains and hotels setting up their own restaurants, leading to an all-day dim sum movement that’s been well-received for its creativity, quality and reasonable price points. Former Lung King Heen chef Mak Kwai-pui paved the way with his Michelin-starred Tim Ho Wan and now Maxim’s former executive dim sum chef, Wong Kin Yam, is following suit with Chef Wong Dim Sum Dining.
Like Tim Ho Wan, chef Wong’s Sham Shui Po establishment is simple, cosy, hectic and noisy, with photographs, medals and press clippings attesting to the excellence of his dim sum. But customers need look no further than the menu, which is full of Wong’s innovative inflections to traditional favourites, to get their own take.
The shrimp with goose liver dumpling ($16) is a good start – a wonderfully hot dish with quality pâté melting alongside expertly minced shrimp. The fat and oil of the goose liver blend perfectly into the dumpling, proving to be a lovely buttery experience. There’s also the cute baby abalone siu mai ($16), which is fresh, bouncy and supple. The steamed chicken big bun ($20) – once common, but now a rarity in local restaurants – stuffed with a tender, well-seasoned chicken meatball containing chunks of egg, ham and chicken breast, is also worth trying.
The only disappointment is a lacklustre creamy custard bun ($12 for two), whose egg-custard flavour and texture (gelatin likely being the guilty party) has neither confidence nor joy. For the sweets-inclined, we’d try the rich and smooth black sesame buns ($12 for two) instead.
Chef Wong Dim Sum Dining will win fans with its great value-for-money and fun spin on traditional dim sum. And there is a feeling of being served something made with love here – and that’s a priceless feeling. Li Meng de Bakker
G/F, 104 Pei Ho St, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon, 2361 0262. $150.
|Venue name:||Chef Wong Dim Sum Dining|
G/F, 104 Pei Ho St, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon