This place is styled in the fashion of lots of other hip eateries in the area: ash wood, smoked glass, large booth seating and lots of neon. It also has a club-like atmosphere, which sets up the attitude of the fusion menu.
But it’s more traditional Korean than fusion as the menu very much reads like that of Secret Garden or Sorabol with offerings such as galbe, jhap chae and seafood deokbokgi (spicy seafood rice cakes). We settled for the Royal Korean set menu ($98), which had a little bit of everything.
The rib was a Flintstone-sized hunk of meat with a belt of fat. This, I’m told by my fellow diner and food writer, is what gives this cut its tenderness. The sweet stock had a minimal hint of garlic. The meat itself was tender, but the bone and fat took up most of what was edible.
The clams in the clam and tofu soup were deflated. The heat of the soup was toned down by Korean standards, which means you end up tasting the brine of the pickle and the milky tofu, and not the spice.
Nothing about this set menu was fusion so we went for something of an oddity: the deok galbi (minced meatball) sandwich with ‘wine grain bread’ ($68). Our server announced the bread was ‘homemade’. No such thing. The bread was store bought, probably from a supermarket. We secretly hoped it would be our answer to New York’s Momofuku’s pork bun, but alas not.
The main event was the meatball, but since there was so much bread, it seemed like a rather sad Wimpy sandwich. “What a missed opportunity,” my fellow diner sighed. Angie Wong
2/F, Miramar Shopping Centre, 132 Nathan Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2363 1102. Daily 11am-4.30am. Meal for two: around $300.
2/F, Miramar Shopping Centre, 132 Nathan Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui