The rumoured connection to a local celebrity may have drawn in the crowds, but it’s the great Cantonese food at market prices that keeps the lines long at Harbour Restaurant.
At first glance, the place seems like a typical Canto restaurant, with fish tanks lining its storefront. Even when seated, you’ll never know you are about to be served a great ‘home-cooked’ meal. The first thing you should do after securing a table is to get up and exit the restaurant to chat it up with the fish guy. He’ll tell you what is fresh and kicking, and how you should have it prepared. All prices are decided by weight.
The freshly killed steamed spotted grouper with scallions and ginger strips came out tender, dripping with soy and oil ($376). The belly was slightly undercooked and the meat stuck to the bone, but we forgave that slight oversight with their razor clams in Chui Chow sauce ($144). The nature of this clam is that it is chewy, so don’t be alarmed when it requires a bit of bite. The hardy chilli ‘brown sauce’, coupled with a bowl of plain white rice, is what my father likes to call a fine lunch. The one item you should seriously consider is the steamed sea scallops with glass noodles and a mountain of garlic ($224). Get one for each member of your party.
The only disappointment of the meal – and this has happened on repeat visits, is that they run out of their daily soup early. Also expect shitty service. But you come here for the food. Angie Wong
G/F, Grand Fortune Mansion, 1 Davis St, Kennedy Town, 2818 0101. Daily noon-2am. Meal for two: around $750.