Time Out says
Simple and effective Kam's Roast Goose's modest exterior
After a spectacular court battle over the ownership of famed roast goose restaurant Yung Kee between the two brothers, the late Kinsen and Ronald Kam, the former’s family has set up its own diner to carry on the legacy of their father.
While far less glamorous than Central’s Yung Kee, this Wan Chai restaurant focuses on a highly edited offering – roast goose and char siu, a variety of soy marinated ‘lo shui’ meats and offals.
Naturally, we plump straight for the roast goose. While comparable in pricing to Yung Kee (rice plate, $45; whole goose, $468), the bird lacks the wonderful aroma that comes from the fatty, roasted skin and the savoury taste found in Central. The roast suckling pig rice plate ($68) fares better, with a balanced combination of fat, meat and crispy skin. We also opt for the preserved egg with pickled ginger appetiser ($10), Yung Kee’s main ‘amuse bouche’, which excels with the egg’s soft chewy centre.
We also try the Prince Kinsen Noodle ($34), the Yung Kee signature invented by Kinsen. It doesn’t live up to its reputation. While the egg noodle dish is doused with roast goose drippings and then dipped into the accompanying clear consommé, it tastes bland, with the noodles lacking flavour and its famous al dente texture.
Kam’s Roast Goose isn’t trying to take on Yung Kee, but rather simply offering a decent roast meat diner. Yet while customers will fill this place out of nostalgia, it’s not the spectacular roast goose we had hoped for. Leslie Chan
Verdict: Yung Kee, the sequel
Kam’s Roast Goose 226 Hennessy Rd, Wan Chai, 2520 1110. Dinner for two: $150.