Just as ramen keeps taking the city by storm, one just can’t help but wonder what happened to the traditional Chinese, chewy hand-pulled noodles, which seem to have fallen by the wayside. That’s why it’s such a wonderful surprise to see chefs rolling and pulling dough in the entrance window to Pearl Dining House, a new casual yet traditionally adorned eatery in Tsim Sha Tsui.
Naturally, we go straight for the hand-pulled la mian, ordering the noodles 12 ways ($56) – a dish that simply provides for a dozen choices, from normal, thick, thin or flat noodles to various broths and toppings – opting for flat noodles with spicy chicken. The well marinated spicy chicken comes plated separately from the noodles, which come in a clear chicken broth, and though the freshly-pulled noodles possess an excellent fluffy bite, the broth is quite simple and doesn’t pair well with the more vibrant spicy chicken.
We also plump for some dumplings and Pearl’s version of the ma lan tou (Shanghainese cabbage). The ma lan tou ($48) comes with a nice twist – an egg roll wrapping – and its presence allows you to take a full bite of the fragrant vegetable and smooth out the rough fibres of the cabbage – a small innovation we like. We also enjoy the pork and vegetable dumplings ($58, the only variety available on the day we dine), which are bursting with delicious soupy filling, even though there’s a bit too much pork and not enough vegetable.
Overall, Pearl Dining House’s offerings are solid, but if they make their signature noodles a little more thrilling, we could see this place bringing the sexy back into la mian. Lisa Cam
Pearl Dining House, Shop UG221, The One, 100 Nathan Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2703 9333; jcgroup.hk, Dinner for two: $200.