While fish and chips has long been a staple in the pubs around town, it’s been a relatively rare sight to see the British classic given a fresh, gourmet look. So it is with some intrigue, that we entered Seasalt. This intrigue however, is soon overtaken by indecisiveness as we’re confronted by a raft of questions posed by the menu: cod ($120), barramundi ($135) or snapper ($130)? Or perhaps calamari ($140) or prawns ($160)? Battered or grilled? Chips or salad?
In our hesitant state, we opt for ‘The Lot’ ($195), a convenient platter that cobbles together battered cod, calamari, grilled prawns, grilled haloumi and a house salad.
Our first bites of the cod, to our surprise, underwhelm – after crunching through the subtly beer-tinged batter, it lacks the punchy cod flavour we expect. The great sauces − aioli, tartar and wasabi mayo − remedy this, but we would have liked to see the fish stand on its own.
The remainder of the platter, however, is all excellent. The fries are solid with a golden-brown colour and an Asian-inspired salad topped with grilled haloumi cheese serve as tasty breaks in between well-seasoned prawns and calamari.
Seasalt has a great vibe and the elements for success – but for a shop wanting to be known for its gourmet fish and chips, they’re going to have to hone its staple dish. Li Meng de Bakker
Seasalt 23 Mosque St, Central, 2790 7211; seasalt.com.hk. Dinner for two: $300.