We do love our pork in Hong Kong. According to the US Department of Agriculture, Hong Kong’s per capita pork consumption is the highest in Asia and almost double that of the Mainland’s. So a restaurant dedicated to this ingredient is of little surprise, but when the kitchens are helmed by Michelin-starred Tom Aikens, celebrity chef and consultant chef of The Pawn, it gets our attention.
Taking over the space where SML used to operate in Times Square, the dining room is certainly spacious. And in case the name didn’t give the game away, emblazoned in giant red neon across the wall is a sign that reads ‘In pork we trust’.
The menu is all small plates, so we launch into our meal with some deep-fried pig’s ears ($108) and we’re disappointed. Those who like pig’s ears enjoy the gristly texture of cartilage and these are totally devoid of that. Next up is the pork jowl ($68) which fares better, arriving fried like a schnitzel, though the bed of spiced mung beans beneath it brings more personality to the plate than the meat. The Cumberland sausage and onion gravy with mash ($58) is exactly what it says on the tin, and nothing to get too excited about either.
The fare on offer at The Fat Pig isn’t bad, but in a city filled with the most voracious pork eaters on the planet, we need a bit more panache on our plate in order to have us singing some praises. Naomi Locke
Dinner for two: $500.