The Japanese always seem to have a way of making everything they do look meticulous and utterly streamlined. Such is the case with this new little Italian nook that has opened up on the slopey corner of Hollywood Road in Sheung Wan. Its interior is a warm, brightly lit, cheery little haven for the hungry, and beyond its steely brass doors, Trattoria Queen Hollywood serves Italian food but with a Japanese twist. The ingredients are as fresh as a newborn baby’s bottom but, luckily for us, don’t taste like one.
Instead, there are a whole lot of cheesy sauces found in most of the dishes we try, especially the tagliatelle alla carbonara ($180), a pasta made with Japanese egg and thick chunks of bacon, that’s simple with few ingredients, but brimming with umami flavour – from the perfectly al dente noodles to the buttery sauce and the generous splatters of fresh ground black pepper. The arista di maiale, also known as the roasted organic pork ($280), is smothered with a white creamy cheese sauce and then served alongside some ultra sweet and crunchy corn, and Chinese flat white kidney beans. The creamy sauce overpowers the roasted essence of the pork. This is definitely not a dish for those looking to count their calories.
We attempt to balance our cheesy meal out with some magnificently juicy chicken wings ($100) coated with honey and the bagna cauda ($180), an array of fresh vegetables imported direct from Japan. The corn holds its own with a lovely sweetness and crunchy texture but the other veggies taste rather flat without a sauce to dip in. Our plate comes with a serving of anchovy dip but it’s a salty combo – and oily at that – so we dip with severe caution.
Trattoria Queen Hollywood is not a place to go for authentic Italian cuisine but for those who favour Japan’s interpretation of the food, head on over. Save for the heavy dose of cream and cheese, the cosy vibe, immaculate Japanese aesthetics and fragrantly fresh ingredients should draw you in. Janice Jann
258 Hollywood Rd, Sheung Wan, 2559 6077; facebook.com/queenhollywood. Dinner for two: Around $800.