Despite its name the Waterfront Vietnamese is nowhere near the water; instead, it is in the middle of Tin Hau’s dining row. A black box of dark wood veneer and smoked mirror, this eatery specialises in tomato in everything from their pho to clay pot stews.
I ordered the baby clams in sweet sake and lemongrass broth ($36), tomato beef brisket clay pot with garlic toast ($68), and bánh mì (Vietnamese sandwich, $28). The clams were infused with ginger and lemongrass and were delicately sweet, and the broth, though MSG laden, was the same.A great starter to the meal.
The beef brisket and carrots in the sweet tomato stew were addictive and tender, and the garlic toast was perfect for sopping up the gravy. But it was the bánh mì that topped this meal. The pate, pickled carrots, coleslaw, coriander, mayo, ham and meat were a wonderful combination. The only disappointment was the unwholesome mass-produced white roll it was served on, but this a problem with many small restaurants that cannot bake their own.
Skip their steamed rice roll with shrimp ($32) which they desecrated with a straight peanut butter ‘sauce’, and spicy beef noodle soup, which was not spicy in any fashion and came without the customary bean sprouts, chillies or basil. Spice, in this case, came from the cinnamon, coriander and lemongrass steeped in the stock, and not actual heat from chillies. However, the beef was the cut from the belly and that extra bit of fat made the meat incredibly soft and tender.
G/F, 12 Mercury St, Tin Hau, 2578 3955. Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Meal for two: $270.