What is it? Regional Italian knockouts in a revamped pub on cobbled Columbia Road.
Why we love it: The debut restaurant from Dara Klein takes over a gorgeously gabled Victorian boozer on the eastern fringes of Colombia Road. It still feels pubby, with a handpainted sign, 1930s-styled stained glass windows, mahogany wood-pannelling and, inexplicably, a giant portrait of Cher above the bar. The menu dips into rarer regional cracks of Italian cuisine, with historic offerings such as anchovies in saor (a ye olde Venetian marinade), alongside a hypnotic passatelli in brodo, and a furiously fresh chicken Milanese served with dill, fennel, celery, tarragon and crisp green apple.
Time Out tip: Getting a table here can be tough, but the bar area is always reserved for walk-ins. Chance your arm on a drop-in perch, where the full food menu is available.
Address: 109 Columbia Road, Bethnal Green, E2 7RL.
Opening hours: Mon-Tue closed, Wed-Fri 6-10pm, Sat 12-3pm & 6-10pm, Sun 12-4pm.
Expect to pay: Antipasti £5-16, primi £15-19, secondi £20-27.

















































