NGV International
Various
Admired worldwide for its elegant silhouette and intricate details, the kimono has been an integral, yet constantly evolving, pillar of Japanese fashion for hundreds of years. The iconic straight-cut wrap with matching belt (obi) first appeared in the Heian period (784-1185) alongside the shifting of the island nation’s seat of government to Kyoto. Originally worn by working class people, they were practical and simple, but soon became ubiquitous, adopted by nobility, warriors and everyday folks alike.
When Japan opened its borders to the world in the mid-19th century, stunning examples made their way out across the globe. In turn, fashion designers began putting their spin on the national dress. They’re not frozen in time at home, either, with contemporary Japanese designers throwing out the rule book and adapting the look to take it in exciting new directions, as well as honouring tradition in unique ways.
If your budget can’t quite stretch as far as a trip to Japan right now, then the next best thing is winding your way towards St Kilda Road’s NGV International instead. Dazzling exhibition Kimono, on display until October 5, showcases the extraordinary range of the once-humble outfit.
There are 70 beautiful examples on show, including seven newly acquired silk and ramie kimono, once belonging to samurai and merchant families, that date back to the Edo period (1603-1867). You’ll be able to learn about the layers of meaning stitched into recurring motifs like the eternal crane, who flocks amongst the gods, as well as weeping wisteria and gently falling snow detailed in the shibori tie-die technique.
From there, you can check out the latest trends, including stunning kimonos from the like of boundary-expanding Kyoto designer Jotaro Saito, who relishes exploring new approaches that embrace the luxuriously contemporary end of the look, including stencil art adornments alongside the traditional hand-painted yuzen technique.
You’ll also be able to admire examples from arguably Japan’s most famous modern designer, the late, impossibly great Issey Miyake. Combining his penchant for pleats with the dramatic poster creations of much-missed graphic designer extraordinaire Ikko Tanaka, these wow-inducingly bright, block print-like creations are utterly amazing.
Australian twists drawn from the NGV archives include kimonos created by Kyoto-born designer Akira Isogawa. He emigrated to Australia when he was 21 and now lives and works on Gadigal land in Sydney, putting his own stamp on the timeworn creation so adored by fashion lovers.
There’s also a local highlight in an astounding white wedding kimono gifted to the NGV by the Melbourne family of celebrated embroiderer Funiko Saito, whose remarkable skills were so in demand they once worked for the imperial family in Japan before making their way down to Australia.
You can explore variations created by prominent 20th century European designers, including Parisian couturier Paul Poiret and London-based Liberty & Co., working in the Japonisme style. Plus kimonos crafted by titans like Alexander McQueen, Givenchy and Comme des Garçon. All alongside contemporary Japanese designers including Tamao Shigemune, Modern Antenna, Robe Japonica, Rumi Rock and Y&SONS, plus looks lifted straight from Harajuku’s OTT streets.
These silken kimonos are accompanied by 150 complementary artworks, including paintings, posters and other decorative pieces, as well as design-forward magazines.
“Kimono – and the timeless sense of style they embody – are true icons of global fashion culture and an instantly-recognisable symbol of Japan,” NGV director Tony Elwood says. “Featuring exquisite, hand-crafted kimono worn by Japanese shogun, samurai, merchants and stage performers, this exhibition narrates the garment’s rich history with sophistication and flare.”
For more information and to book tickets, head to the website.
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