Nestled in an intimate second-storey space on the corner of Russell and Bourke Streets, a cocktail bar is rumoured to be serving in-the-know Melburnians some of the most innovative drinks in the city. Even when I let slip to another venue’s bartender that we’re headed there, a spark of recognition flickers in her eyes: “I’ve heard so much about that place!”
The Coupette Group, a small private hospo crew, quietly opened Bouvardia in May 2021. So it’s new, but not brand new by Melbourne’s standards. In any case, when we amble up the narrow staircase we feel a sense of feverish anticipation. Bouvardia’s drinks program is known to be at the forefront of cutting-edge flavour innovation, from the use of isoamyl acetate (the chemical compound that tastes like bananas) to a sustainability centred focus on local seasonal ingredients – some of which take up to weeks to prepare. The venue manager behind the vision is none other than Dom Gareffa, formerly of Attica.
We doubt we’re going to see traditional Spritzes or Gimlets on the menu here. One of our bartenders confirms all of the above when we arrive, with an expression akin to a cheeky wink: “If you haven’t been here before, just know that our menu is very unconventional – but we can do all the classics if you’d like.”
The space is plush, handsome and colourful, oozing comfort and mid-century modern style. Cosy banquettes in hues of sea green and burnt amber line the perimeter of walls that pop with tones of playful lime green. Water is poured from Dinosaur Designs’ handcrafted candy floss pink resin jugs. Even the laminated menu book itself is a feast for the eyes, each page adorably colour-coded to match the shade of its correlating drink. We take a stool at the central marble bar to flip through our options, and an elegant hook under the bar takes my handbag. The energy feels cosy and bright, and the good-natured service staff are quick to answer any questions that arise.
I start with something called Not All Cucumbers Wear Capes. Apple-scented and vegetal, it’s like drinking a Gin and Tonic flavoured with cold-pressed green juice. A blend of acidified cukes, fennel seed, capers and Applewood gin, I conjure up fantasies of this concoction being consumed during a sunny picnic in the park. My partner’s Major Tom is so extraordinary it has me typing sophisticated notes on my phone like “woah omg yes.” A tart lid of amazake cream (reminiscent of yoghurt) conceals a bright green potion of lacto-fermented passionfruit, mandarin curacao and Aussie handmade corn vodka. The fresh fruitiness is appealing, but its power lies in the exceptional balance of ingredients.
Everything at Bouvardia is giving fun chemistry lab vibes, from luminescent orb lamps lining the walls and matching olive-green aprons worn by the bartenders to the breakdown of each drink’s various make-up parameters in the menu. You get the volume, ABV, pH, acid, allergens and profile information for every creation, a refreshingly transparent and fascinating insight into the science behind the art of mixology.
For second drinks, I opt for a bright pink cocktail called Barney’s Embrace and my partner puts the bar’s classic cocktail skills to the test. A French 76 is the bartender’s suggestion, and holy Moses, it’s perfection. Nothing but Applewood gin, lemon juice, sugar and a dash of sparkling white from the Barossa Valley, the classy take on the famous drink is smooth with an effervescent kick. We can see why it’s one of the bartender’s favourites. My Barney’s Embrace purrs with the mellow sweetness of ripe dragonfruit and a base of lemon myrtle and Aussie rum, and in terms of aesthetics, it would fit right in on the set of the Barbie movie. Its ice cube, as clear as an Atlantic iceberg, comes sprinkled with what looks like fuschia-hued fairy dust. Our bartender says these particular kinds of ice cubes aren’t cheap, but he loves the way they look. We’re simply impressed by all the attention to detail.
Though the focus here definitely lasers in on cocktails, there’s more to Bouvardia than meets the eye. A small snack menu offers up kikones (Spanish air-roasted jalapeno corn), characterful cheeses like French smoked raclette and local Milawa blue, and cured meats. And each month, Bouvardia collaborates with photographers, sculpturists and creatives to host exhibition opening nights, where you can purchase the works directly from the bar. As far as cocktail bars in Melbourne go, it’s as chic as you can get.
But while Bouvardia’s reputation as an innovator may rest on its desire to push the bounds of modern drinking, the bottom line is that the cocktails truly taste as impressive as they look – and that’s why we’ll be back. Unconventional, enchanting and championing a no-waste approach, Bouvardia is one of the most exciting secret gems in Melbourne right now and we can’t wait to see what the team dream up next.
