Melbourne’s Japanese dining scene is ever-evolving, and Kentaro is the latest to make its mark. After developing a loyal following as a pop-up at Operator San, it’s now found a permanent home in a discreet spot on Exhibition Street.
Head chef Ken Kee has worked in Singapore, Malaysia, Japan and at local institutions Shoya and Shiranui. At Kentaro, he puts premium seafood, top-grade Japanese beef and seasonal local produce front and centre.
Dinner is a $220 or $270 omakase starting with produce-driven appetisers like hollowed persimmon filled with goma-ae (sesame-dressed vegetables), followed by sashimi, a grilled course and nigiri. Dishes toe the line between delicate and decadent – think fatty otoro (tuna belly), scallop stuffed with foie gras, and chawanmushi (a savoury steamed egg custard) topped with uni and gold flakes, served in a ceramic egg. The meal wraps with a rare cut of A5 Ozaki beef sirloin (seldom seen in Australia), a light broth-based palate cleanser, and a rotating dessert by former Masterchef contestant Jess Lemon.
Lunchtime is more relaxed with an $88 omakase – among the city’s more accessible options – offered as either a four-course set or a sushi selection. A la carte is also available, including chirashi bowls and M9+ steak dons.
The drinks list includes a sharp selection of wine and sake – and guests are welcome to BYO a bottle provided they purchase another from the venue. Curious about Kentaro? Find out more at the website. Kentaro is open from Tuesday to Sunday at 6/242 Exhibition Street for both lunch and dinner bookings.
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