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In recent years, Coburg's Pentridge Prison precinct has morphed from a boarded-up construction cocoon into a vibrant – if somewhat notoriously storied – butterfly. The former maximum-security prison (once famous for housing the likes of Ned Kelly and Chopper Read) reopened to the public in 2020 after extensive redevelopment works, and has since gained a water fountain-dotted piazza, boutique hotel, shopping centre, cinema, restaurants, beer garden and wine bar.
And now, there's yet another reason to visit: a contemporary Japanese-inspired restaurant playfully named Koi Toy.
Open late for cocktails and share-style dishes, the casual 90-seater is perfectly primed for pre-movie drinks, celebratory dinners and catch-ups in between. Bright neon signs punctuate the space, while spherical paper lantern-inspired lighting and timber furnishings exude an inviting warmth; choices consciously made by award-winning interior design firm Studio Y as a nod to the modern Japanese inspo.
Executive Chef Alex Meimetis (Chin Chin Geelong, Claypots Evening Star) isn't afraid to have a bit of fun with the menu, which reinterprets Japanese flavours through a globally diverse lens. Think angel hair pastry-wrapped wasabi prawns served with the punchy smokiness of chorizo, a Japanese-style croquette (korokke) that incorporates ginger, chives, sheep's cheese and spicy sujuk, or karashi-seared scallops that arrive in an emulsion pairing mirin with saffron.
“At Koi Toy, our aim is to offer delicious, rustic and creative Japanese food with a twist,” Meimetis shares. “We’ve moved beyond the usual sushi and sashimi staples, presenting dishes that are infused with passion and innovation.”
A quick glance at the menu and the kingfish sashimi may read like a staple, but upon closer reading (and tasting), it's clear that Meimetis is daring to do things differently. Koi Toy's take on the dish comes with yuzu kosho, nahm jim, pops of pink grapefruit, nori, coconut cream and red shiso – with radiantly delicious results.
Other plates may take a little tinkering, but it's still early days. The staff share that in the weeks since opening, customer favourites are already becoming clear: Suntory-glazed chicken ribs, Kyoto-inspired butter chicken and the yakitori-glazed sticky pork belly with nashi pear slaw.
These bites are best paired, of course, with a crisp beer or a drink from the fun cocktail list developed by ex-Golden Monkey bartenders Danny Chen and Whale Kim. Exclusive off-menu options are also available.
Perch at the bar to watch a yuzu-infused Mojito or an Espresso Martini made with Japanese whiskey take form, spread out at one of the larger communal-style tables or sit outside to soak in the dusky piazza vibes. There's also a private room for up to 20 if you're planning something special.
Koi Toy is open seven days a week at Pentridge Shopping Centre in Coburg. Visit the website for more details.
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