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Time Out Melbourne never writes starred restaurant and bar reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills, and anonymously reviews, so that readers can trust our critique. Find out more here.
The fertile coastal landscape of the Mornington Peninsula has long been a breeding ground for excellent dining spots, both fancy and casual (hello, Tedesca Osteria, Many Little and Red Gum BBQ – to name a few). And now, we can add a newish name to that list: Barragunda Dining.
Located on 400 hectares of farmland and sprawling native bush that forms Barragunda Estate, the property is owned by the Morris family, who, via their foundation, direct all profits made from the restaurant back into work that supports improvements and innovations in Australia’s food systems.
And really, that’s what the ethos is all about at Barragunda: focusing on sustainable agricultural practices that encourage regeneration, while creating a hyper-local culinary experience that feels rooted in place. When all these elements come together, it makes for one inspiring and unforgettable meal.
The vibe
Courtesy of David Dubois Architecture, Barragunda’s former farm shed has been transformed into a warm 40-seat restaurant that feels especially welcoming on an unseasonably grey and drizzly day in March. A large timber bar and shelves lined with jars of pickled veg and fermented fruit welcome guests, before the open kitchen and light-filled dining room unfurl as you walk further into the cathedral-ceilinged space.
On a sunny day, you can admire the view of the market garden through floor-to-ceiling windows, or even break up your sitting by going for a stroll outside. On my visit, it was just as cinematic to watch the rain, mist and fog roll through while perched comfortably in one of the raw leather dining chairs. And, considering the weather, combined with a bang-on 12pm Monday lunch booking, I was pleasantly surprised to see Barragunda fill up quickly with hungry patrons – creating a lively yet still-cosy atmosphere, where you can yap away, clink glasses and swoon loudly over the food without interrupting anyone else.
Special shout-out to the lovely staff, who glide effortlessly between tables, answering questions with a confident ease and happily sharing a drink rec or two.
The food
The culinary genius behind Barragunda’s four-course, share-style set menu ($160 per person) – which evolves with the seasons and the farm’s natural produce cycles – is executive chef and Mornington Peninsula local, Simone Watts. Her deep understanding of the region, a passion for ethically grown food and love of farm-to-table dining has seen her create a menu that is accessible (truly, there are no bougie ingredients with hard-to-pronounce names or crazy cooking techniques that might frighten people off) and, most importantly, really bloody delicious.
On my visit, we begin with four snacks: a plate of crunchy baby vegetables with a smoked tarragon sabayon for dipping; mussels and summer fruits bathed in a crustacean oil with marigold; a bresaola, beetroot and sunflower muhammara; and a kinda sweet, kinda savoury pain au chocolat. It’s this last dish – one you would normally find under a cloche at a café – that sends my taste buds into orbit. The pastry is flaky and beautifully textured, the 80 per cent dark chocolate adding just the right amount of bitterness to balance the acidity in the almost ketchup-like piped icing.
A nugget of spent hen (which I learn is code for a retired egg-laying chook) is given a punchy kick with spiced apricot, egg yolk, wild fennel and kohlrabi – and while it may be on the dainty size portion-wise, it packs an almighty flavour bomb.
Mains are served by way of Barragunda hogget served with green figs and a generous smear of milk labneh, accompanied by charred cauliflower, ricotta, smoked whey and a garlic crumb, and a generous bowl of garden leaves and salted squash doused in a lemon pickle dressing. It’s rich and rustic in the most comforting way – the rib meat is melt-in-your-mouth good and the figs add a jammy sweetness. And while the salad may sound simple, it’s really a wonderful example of letting the quality and ripeness of these homegrown ingredients sing on their own.
We finish on a light, bright and zesty note with the sweet finale: croissant ice cream with a carrot and burnt honey kefir and preserved citrus trifle. Visually, it’s a gorgeous dish – and it tastes just as good. The featherlight mousse is creamy and tangy; there’s a soft, spongy cake layer; the crumb adds crunch; and the fragrant citrus elements lift the whole dish. Yum.
The drinks
It feels like it should be a rule to start lunch at Barragunda with the Lunch Martini, and that’s exactly what my friend does. A combo of lemon-scented gum vermouth, fino sherry, Antica formula and Limoncello, it’s understated but refreshing – and a lovely, subtle way to kick off proceedings. As the deso driver, I’m on the mocktails, and I opt for the Barragunda Soda, which is a biting blend of fermented plum, strawberry vinegar and soda that tastes like a fizzy grown-up cordial and comes garnished with a sprig of rosemary.
The fruits used in the cocktails (along with all the ciders and vinegars) are sourced from the on-site orchard, which boasts 800 mature trees bearing everything from apples, cherries, citrus and peaches to pears, quince and figs.
The excellent vino list is well represented by local Victorian winemakers who share the same ethical and sustainable beliefs as the team at Barragunda, but it’s not just an all-Aussie affair. My friend is recommended a French tipple via a glass of the La Soeur Cadette Melon de Bourgogne and its super drinkable – layered, but not too complex, with fresh, fruity notes.
Time Out tip:
Bookings open at 9am on the first day of the last month of each season, with reservations then available for the following three months. For example, bookings for autumn (March, April, May) opened on February 1. Basically, you need to be organised to secure your spot at Barragunda.
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